#1
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Super-glue help
I am building the Graf Zeppelin model by Ralph Currell:
Airship LZ 127 'Graf Zeppelin' The propellers for the model are only about 5 or 6 mm (1/4 inch) in diameter and less than about 1 mm in width. I've read that super glue can be used to strengthen small parts, but I'm unsure about some of the details. For example, should I use thin CA or the gel type? Should I cut out the part(s) first, or coat them with CA and then cut them out? Any help with understanding the overall process will be greatly appreciated. |
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#2
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the thin or medium would work
but i would cut some of the props outand let the glue soak into the paper, and then when dry cut the rest of the prop out. Rick
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"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo |
#3
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Regular CA is good for strengthening parts. It soaks in where the gel or thick types tend to build up on the surface. Apply sparingly or you will ed up with an uneven high gloss surface. As to whether to apply before or after depends on how you color your edges. Some inks, paints etc will not coat CA impregnated paper. Also the CA may cause bleeding of the edge coloring or even the ink. It will definitely cause the parts to be darker. CA impregnated parts are going to be more difficult to cut also. I suggest you experiment or try Future (a liguid acrylic floor polish). If the props are of laminated construction a couple of light coats of PVA glue allowed to dry on the back of the parts before cutting them out will probably accomplish what you need.
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#4
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Quote:
How brittle are these tiny parts when they've been coated in super glue? |
#5
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No, what i mean is, cut out a prop blade partially, and then apply the glue and you can then shape some of the prop when it is still wet and attached to the paper, and then finish cutting out the part when dry
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"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo |
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#6
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I always soak the back of the part with thin CA, let it dry and then cut it out. I score the part before and after soaking and before cutting. I've tried cutting first, but I can get a much more precise cut on small parts after soaking. It is more difficult to cut though. I always paint the edges rather than using a marker when I do that. The parts aren't brittle, just kind of leathery.
Try a number of ways and see what you like best!
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Jim |
#7
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Thanks, everyone. What are some good brands of super glue? What are the best dispensers (tubes, bottles, etc.) for modeling use? I've mainly used little tubes (like toothpaste tubes), but those things get clogged up too quickly.
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#8
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You can get inexpensive superglue (thin ca glue) just about anywhere now, I have been keeping the thin glue in the fridge as it keeps forever that way, but the gel I don't need to. Stiffening parts, I edge color first, then soak from the back, very useful for canopy frames. I put the opened containers in another container for storage in the fridge, to avoid spills.
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regards Glen |
#9
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I get the CA in a little bottle with a brush. The brush allows me a little more control over application although the stuff stiff runs everywhere.
The specific brand is "Instant Krazy Glue." It is actually purpleish when wet but dries clear(ish). Carl |
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