First traditional paper model!

[Hunterdude]

I have built a couple paper rockets and a model that was all laminated flat work, but this is my very first traditional score and fold model.
I ordered this set of 4 buildings as they looked nice and simple to build up my skill for some more difficult kits I have. I selected the simplest of the 4 buildings and learned quite a bit. I used a large sewing needle for my scores, Aleens tacky glue for most of the build, and a thin steel rule as a cut guide for the long straight cuts.
I can see how some of those little artist towels could be handy to reach inside to press the glue flaps down, and a few other tools I would like to add.
I did use zip dry glue to attach the structure to the base as I had a fan running and the glue wants to flash pretty fast when you need to cover several flaps at one time, I was spreading the glue pretty thin, and more glue would give longer open time but I want to avoid warps. The zip dry glue gave me a little more open time but there may be better glue?
I did play around with "painting" the edges of the cut card stock, I am not real happy with my current markers and want to invest in some good ones before I move on to my better models. Over all it was more fun to build than I thought the simple building would be!
I would welcome any tips or ways to improve?

[Kevin WS]

Well, the model looks really great - well made, square and neatly done.

The edge painting has also worked too and looks fine!

--------------------------

In terms of the edge try using watercolour pencils rather. These are easier to shade/blend.

But before doing so it is important to spray the model with a matt varnish - a cheap one from a hardware store should work fine. This protects the model and stops the watercolour "bleeding" into the paper. The varnish also helps to stop folds splitting.

Basically, the approach is to moisten the watercolour pencils and then apply the colour along the edge. If you have excess, you can just wipe it off with a moist finger.

Generally, also with edges, the watercolour will penetrate the white areas of the fold, staying there when you clean up with a finger (if that makes sense!).

--------------------------

When making architectural models, bits of plate glass and an engineers square is also something I use. I will not explain the technique again as I have just done so in a post here.

See Post #8.

Ancient Temple Of Sacrifice by Mauther (Papermau)

[FRD]

It looks like it turned out quite well...

[SCEtoAUX]

That turned out nice. Good job on your first traditional model.
S-B models are good, especially the way the parts are numbered.

[airdave]

Yes, that is a cute little bulding!
Well done.

Did you scan the model sheet before you cut it up?
This gives you a digital copy that you can use to reprint parts if an accident should happen.
Just remember, the scanned copy is technically not allowed due to copyright, but as long as you use it for personal reasons and don't share or sell it, you are good.

Layering is the technique of laminating additional layers of parts to create 3D effect.
With a pre-printed model, you could use a scanned copy to create additional surface parts.
Just print a second model sheet and cut out the specific areas you need.
eg a Window Frame

I use Artist Markeres for my edge colouring
(just too lazy to use paint and brush, or watercolour pencils which can provide a nice finish)
but I find water based markers are safer than alcohol based.
They bleed less.
There is a trick to using Markers quickly and lightly to avoid ink bleed into the paper.

[Hunterdude]

Many thanks for the kind words and Great tips!
I did not photocopy the first model but think I will for the other 3 buildings, I love the idea of cuting out window frames and layer to add some 3D texture, it will not need a ton of extra detail in this small scale to make the model really pop in IMHO.
Shingles would be fun to layer as well, but not in this tiny scale. I need to go get some Matt spray as I did get some bleeding of marker, and I think the spray may help protect the model a bit to.
It's so nice that folks are willing to take a little time to help the new guy be more successful, thank you! -Ben

[airdave]

Shingles could be done in long strips of shingles.
start attaching at the bottom edge of the roof, and overlap going upwards.
Use a scribing tool to define the lines between shingles before installing.

[Vermin_King]

If you want to practice on some other Hubert Siegmund models, there is always Bastelbogen: Romantische Altstadt – Kaukapedia


Some of the scans are better than others. The first two plates are not at the same scale as the rest of the village

[Hunterdude]

Well, I am eager to try the layering method on my second house build, however to change things up I built a simple small boat.... Wow, the boat hull is considerable more challenging to get a neat result! I originally thought this kit may be to simple, but I am glad I started with these before I tackle my Harbor Tug!
I made several mistakes on this build, I had photocopy made, thinking to try some layering on this kit, only to find when I got home my copy guy had selected possibly 1 grade lighter cardstock than the stock kit and also a bit more glossy. Well as I am so new to the hobby I want to get a feel for how different paper grades are to work with and so I built up the lighter copy. I now know I MUCH prefure S-B cardstock!
I did finish the build and varnished the hull inside and out like I saw done on a humorous S-B video to make the model float, but this paper was not nice enough to warrant the layering extras, I will take what I learned from my mistakes and build the boat again from better paper and add the layering details to my second build.
The biggest problem other than the thin paper was when I was adding the deck to the hull, The glue grabbed before I was ready and I did considerable damage pulling it off to reposition.
Also the Varnish was not kind to the paper, but it was fun to make a paper ship float!