Tank Treads

**jmr248** · #1 03-02-2010, 12:38 PM

In looking at many of the tracked vehicles posted, the builder has created the droop in the tread from the weight of the tread in thier model.

How do you go about having the tread sag from it's own weight and achieve the realistic look that many of you obtain in your treads?

Thank you in advance for the information and insight.

**Tim Crowe** · #2 03-02-2010, 03:22 PM

I did this on a recent tank build (pics in this forum)

The first thing is to make sure your tracks are long enough to create sagging.

Study photos to see how and where the tracks sag. I started mine by glueing the tracks to the bottom of the running wheels then gradually working round to the top.

The sags were re-created by putting dowel between the running boards and the gaps in the wheels.

It's a bit hit and miss but well worth it.

Tim

**jagolden01** · #3 03-02-2010, 03:52 PM

Tim's advice is straight on.

Long enough tracks.
Study photos of the tank you're building.

These tracks are simplified but the sag is pretty close to actual KV-II's

TinPaper Moon Tank Model

**CMDRTED** · #4 03-02-2010, 04:00 PM

when i used to build 1/76 afvs sometimes i used straight pins to push down on the area between the return rollers. this would be inserted thru the side hull with a small area of built up material on the inside of the hull side to support the pin going thru.

**Jim Nunn** · #5 03-02-2010, 09:56 PM

On the larger AFV’s that have individual track links I use fairly heavy annelid iron wire (1.5 to 2 mm) for the pivot pins in the links. This adds quite a bit of weight to the links and with careful alignment of tensioning boggie the droop is pretty well built in. If you are using laser cut links (and I would recommend that you do they are well worth the money) then this will not work because the pivot pins are usually made from fine wire around .5 mm diameter. On these I have tended to glue the links to the boggies and create the droop in the links between the boggies and then add a touch of cyano glue to set them in place. Leave one of the drooping sections loose so that you can wiggle them for the plastic modelers. That’s when they usually make a comment questioning your sanity.

The annelid iron wire is available from your local ACE hardware store but they often call it black iron wire. It is very easy to bend and is available in sizes from .5 mm through 2 mm

Jim Nunn

**CharlieC** · #6 03-03-2010, 04:01 AM

You can get drooping tracks even with band tracks - the trick is to put a layer of thin tough paper between the card layers. Go back through the threads for the "PzIF tracks" thread.

Regards,

Charlie

**Jim Nunn** · #7 03-03-2010, 11:00 PM

Charlie

I was hopping you would post a link to your tutorial on reworking banded tracks.

Jim

**spencermitchellmusic** · #8 03-06-2010, 08:56 PM

I just started working on my very first tank this week. I have a while to go before I get to the treads, but I am really glad I ran into this post. I was just assumeing that the weight of the tracks was what caused the droop. Now I know to plan ahead when I get there. Thanks everyone!

**rbeach84** · #9 03-26-2010, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Nunn

<<snipped a bit>> On these I have tended to glue the links to the boggies and create the droop in the links between the boggies and then add a touch of cyano glue to set them in place. Leave one of the drooping sections loose so that you can wiggle them for the plastic modelers. That’s when they usually make a comment questioning your sanity. <<remainder snipped>> Jim Nunn

Jim, your comment cracks me up! I know exactly what you mean, though the comments must be ones of admiration... Coming from the 'plastic' fraternity, I have just begun to explore the paper realm as another part of my modeling life journey and have been amazed at the results that have been attained by others working with the cellulose. In reality, plastic, wood, paper, metal, whatever the medium, modeling is modeling. Artistry is in the determined effort to achieve the goal of a pleasing miniature or replica. I still marvel at the beauty of old sailing ship models created by French POW's in England using bone (!) or the fantastic dinosaurs formed from Sculpey, wire and aluminum foil. RE: Sanity-we all probably go a little 'crazy' when working on a favorite subject - the intensity of effort being the escape the hobby gives us, after all. And sometimes the results are truly amazing even to our "brothers" who play in the other sandboxes.

**Golden Bear** · #10 03-26-2010, 04:10 PM

And here I tuned in to see how people handle the repetitiveness of building the silly things!

Several years ago - before I had achieved my modeling zen patience I think - I built the Halinski Tiger I and went just crazy with the tediousness of building the tread links. Of course now I build boring little 47mm guns but that is a different story. I don't think that treads are all that dull at this point.

But back to the question, as a reaffirmation. By the time you've built these little links (assuming that is what you are going to do) and inserted metal pins to couple them, they really have some heft to them. Make certain that you have enough (the Halinski kit left me with about 6 inches too much which POd me at the time) and then build in the sag. I actually wound up with too much and the tracks sag under the running wheels.

I like armor models and should get back to them.

Carl