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#1
03-26-2010, 12:24 PM
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Newbie help on GPM PzKw. IV kit #237
OK, decided I'd built enough churches, catherdrals and castles.
Figured I'd build an armor model. Went to the GPM website which seems to be the only site I can use and pay for things. My order arrived in about a week. I was surprised, but then when shipping was 40% of my order cost, guess that isn't surprising. Figured out the bunch of text on the English version of the site is the build instructions. Didn't know that at first since I'd bought their bundle which doesn't have the instructions. They are only on the page for the model itself not on the bundle page. Ordered their special complete kit with all the extras: laser cut frames and wheels and tracks. It even came with a piece of paper (reminds me of the canvas paper you can buy here) with parts printed on it, then realized the texture meant it was to be that plaster stuff that's supposed to keep magnetic mines from sticking (zimmerzeit sp?). Figured just to get my hands wet and see if the cost of frames and wheels was worth it, thought I'd make it the 'standard' way. That is laminating onto cardstock. I could really put my circle cutter to good use (not much need when building buildings) Even bought the .5, 1 and 2mm thick sheets, 1 of each. Figured I could see exactly what sort of 'cardboard' (proper name is something else, isn't it, chipboard?) they had in mind when those thicknesses were chosen when they drew the model. I sat down, had everything ready and ... The key tells me to roll, wrap, bend, paint on the reverse, etc. But it doesn't tell me what the '*' map to. So my big question after all this is ... For my GPM model, in particular kit 237 PzKw. IVPzKw. IV, what is the guide for * thickness? In a quick glance it seems only ** is used but I know I've seen other models from other makers with * and *** also. Figure its company specific what it means but there aren't any directions I can find. While I'm at is, should probably put my guesses for the rest of the key, in case someone else is just starting out also: scissors - cut this hole (shape) out from within the part open circle - shape into a tube (or is it just to curl the part as appropriate?) closed circle/spiral - wind (wrap) this part paper clip looking symbol (stretched C with line in middle) - fold here and cut out the parts with the white border. The fold will make the back of the parts be colored. crosshair (circle with cross centered over it) - center of circle mat roller (I assume its supposed to be a paint brush) - paint the back of the part (is there any specific color or whatever seems correct?) * - ??? ** - ??? *** - ??? While I'm asking newbie type questions... Its pretty clear what I should do with the laser cut frames and wheels. But the tracks. It looks like there will be a bizillion little track pieces if I let them fall out of the sheet they're in now. What now? Glue them all together? Make pins and create a joint between each tread? Do these then have to be painted? There is a front and back to the parts, what do I do with the back? The textured sheet with bits printed on it (zimmerzeit?) Do these parts replace the smooth parts from the book or go on top or? Things on the parts or diagrams: drut - wire and the 80mm after that is length? Diameter is 'whatever seems right?' szablon - pattern for ? (wire?) TIA Brian 
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#2
03-26-2010, 01:54 PM
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Those *s indicate lamination thickness. If the instructions do not indicate thickness check all parts pages to see if the info is there. If not just measure the slot the laminated piece fits into, that is the required thickness.
English instructions here -> GPM - modele kartonowe
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#4
03-26-2010, 08:31 PM
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Boy 'o boy....you really chose a doozy for your first armor build. Its funny this was the first commercial kit that I purchased...and it is still uncut and probably will be for a long long time. When I first looked over the kit I had the same question regarding the correct card thickness that you have....(I don't think it is ever mentioned anywhere in the instructions - at least no where that I could find it) There is a build of this over on the Zealot forum from a guy named Edikk...I asked him the same question a long time ago and he answered.. the * indicates 0.5mm and the ** indicates 1.0mm cardstock. This is a beautiful model with a complete interior and all...Good luck and please keep up posted with lots of pictures.
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#5
03-26-2010, 11:37 PM
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mat roller (I assume its supposed to be a paint brush) - paint the back of the part (is there any specific color or whatever seems correct?)
You are correct. This is done when the back of the part may be visible color depends on what is around it so use your judgment so that side to be painted will blend into the rest of the model. The only part I found that indicated that the back should be painted was #87d L&P which are the skirts over the top of the tracks so these would be painted to match the hull side of the tank * - ??? On this model .5 mm ** - ??? 1 mm *** - ??? I could not find any parts marked with*** but 2 mm is most likely I have seen these sizes used by some other publishers so it is good to ask if it is not obvious * - Bristol (67 LB PAPER) ** - .5 mm *** - 1 mm While I'm asking newbie type questions... Not newbie questions but good questions GPM did a terrible job on the instructions Its pretty clear what I should do with the laser cut frames and wheels. But the tracks. It looks like there will be a bizillion little track pieces if I let them fall out of the sheet they're in now. What now? Glue them all together? Make pins and create a joint between each tread? Do these then have to be painted? There is a front and back to the parts, what do I do with the back? There should be some sort of instructions but yes there is usually is a top and bottom part with a shallow groove for the hinge pin ( 22 ga wire works). Then the cleat is added (a square bar that fits completely across the top of the link. Then the guides are glued in place. And yes you have to paint them the colors used by GPM are OK but you should add some red/brown for rust and dirt also highlighting the edges with a very light wash of the base color mixed with white will make the links stand out. This web site shows how their track links are assembled and this may apply to your track links The textured sheet with bits printed on it (zimmerzeit?) Do these parts replace the smooth parts from the book or go on top or?Zimmerit is correct, Your preference and it depends on the thickness of the paper. If the sheet is the same thickness as the kit parts (67Lb paper) I would cut the “flat” parts off and use just the Zimmerit parts. My kit did not come with the Zimmerit sheet so I have no idea of the thickness of these parts. Funny thing about Zimmerit there is no known documentation that the Russians ever used magnetic mines on tanks, trains yes but no tanks. Things on the parts or diagrams: drut - wire and the 80mm after that is length? Diameter is 'whatever seems right?' Usually these are shown in 1:1 scale so match up to the thickness of the part. You will find that most wire parts are 1mm ,1.5 mm and some 2mm. but keep in mind that 1mm is equal to I inch ( 25 mm) and if the wire looks to thick or to thin then go with what looks right to you. szablon - pattern for ? (wire?) Template I did not build the kitl but I did find some errors in the model. The engine is at best an approximation of what it should look like. But it should look OK when finished. The big error for me was the muffler part #80 the two tubes pointing to the rear are the input to the muffler so it should be turned around. but then the exaust pipe on top will be on the wrong side and pointing in the wrong direction. When I built the Brummbar I scaned this part and flipped it to the correct position. Jim Nunn
__________________
There is a very fine line between paper modeling and mental illness.
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#6
03-27-2010, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
I do have some more questions. 1) The tracks... They are embossed as well as laser cut. So there isn't a top and bottom piece as you describe and as are shown in the URL provided. The top of the laser cut link has the v-shaped/grooved design that would be on the outside of the track and the bottom smooth side would be the inside. So I don't see a way to put in a pin, but I can't see a way to make the track flex either. I'll try to post pics so hopefully someone can tell me what to do  There are a bunch of bar-like pieces that are obviously the cleats and loop-y pieces that are the guides. Then just the links themselves. I sure do hope someone can help me with these.2) Another post mentions "the Zealot forum." Wassat?
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#7
03-27-2010, 03:07 PM
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Bsoplinger
Did you follow the link to this web site? If all else fails Post some close up photos of the links maybe I can point out how to assemble them. Jim Nunn
__________________
There is a very fine line between paper modeling and mental illness.
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#8
03-27-2010, 08:10 PM
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The laser cut tracks marketed by vkoolv are designed to be assembled either by gluing the links together after shaping the joins between links or if you want to use pins then you've got to drill out the links to fit the pin. There is a guide engraved on the link to guide the drill hole - you'll need some sub-mm drills to do this.
Regards, Charlie
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#9
03-28-2010, 11:26 AM
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I tried taking pics with the builtin webcam on my laptop. Bad idea :(
Here's a link to an etailer that has a pic (and an enlargement) of the laser cut tracks: Panzer Hobby Art -1-25 scale armor models and accessories.: Pz III / Pz IV family , 400mm wide , version 41-44 - g?sienice As you can see, these are basically 1 piece unlike those offered by the eBay guy. Those I understand what I should do but not these from GPM.
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