Using CA with card modeling

**DesignR** · #1 04-09-2010, 05:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbeach84

I just go with the paper composited with CA to get the same level of finish and strength... and I can still enjoy the painting!

Sorry, as a plastic guy just moving into paper, would you mind expanding on those "composited with CA" and "painting" bits? You can MP me if this is too basic for the general membership.

Thanx.

**cgutzmer** · #2 04-09-2010, 05:27 AM

I split this out to its own thread because its an important topic

When parts are small is when people tend to do this or if it needs to be stronger.

You can soak the paper bits in CA to make them very rigid and strong. I personally have never done it so I am sure others can speak better on the subject

Chris

**Bomarc** · #3 04-09-2010, 05:39 AM

I've been using super-glue to soak and harden paper parts more and more since I started work on the landing gear struts in my project. Check out the last couple-three pages of my build thread, link below.

Being a (somewhat) former "plastic guy" myself, I was hoping I could eliminate CA glue in my paper modeling, but I'm finding it's even more useful for paper...go figure!

Mike

Mike

**airdave** · #4 04-09-2010, 05:52 AM

am I missing something?
you can't get any "stiffer", "stronger" than hardened white glues,
so personally I don't see why using CAs is any better?

is it just because if the small quantity applicators? the thinner fluid being easier to pinpoint apply?

but then, "soaking" in it, means the application isn't an issue.

obviously I don't know enough about this practice to fully understand the procedure,
but it seems to me that a good coating of "white" glue (inside if possible?)
will make a part rock solid!
I have used "white" glues to coat small parts (it dries clear) to make them more rigid and stronger.

cyano acrylates are toxic and can glue body parts to things!
not to mention the fact that you have very little working time once the glue is applied.

**cgutzmer** · #5 04-09-2010, 06:26 AM

less warping it one of the main reasons I think and it dries a whole lot quicker for the amount needed - but this is just my theoretical opinion

**jagolden01** · #6 04-09-2010, 06:41 AM

CA glue "plasticises" the part so it is very rigid. It's incredibly useful for those small or delicate pieces.

I could not imagine the skid below being strong enough to support the frame if it had not been coated (as was the entire frame). It aslo allows for a little flexibility without creasing. The Santos-Dumont Demoiselle was pretty much all CA and a little glue stick.

Like many, I find myself using it more and more.

**BARX2** · #7 04-09-2010, 06:46 AM

I use both thin and gel CA all the time. Get a bottle of this stuff. You'll be glad you did. It completely cleans CA off your fingers and leaves them feeling clean and soft again. Also, it can thin dried CA and allow you to separate pieces if you need to. Golden West Super Solvent.

**Lex** · #8 04-09-2010, 06:56 AM

First, cyanoacrylates are not entirely toxic in the sense organic solvents do, apart from nastily glueing body parts to other things which is the main hazard...
Second, CA polymerizes into a resin which is far more rigid than white glue, and soaking paper with it does make an actual composite. I normally make 1mm diameter rolled paper masts with CA that is as stiff as wooden toothpicks. The ones I use are as thin as water

**DesignR** · #9 04-09-2010, 07:03 AM

Wow, amazing responses, thanks. Another question,... how does one 'soak' these parts? Do you put the CA in a dish? Do you brush it on? Does it mess with the printer ink? What's a good brand?

Thank you again.

**jagolden01** · #10 04-09-2010, 07:28 AM

I use Loctite brand CA. I buy it at Lowes or Home Depot, but it can be bought at many department stores. I very much like this brand.

To apply, I usually do it right from the applicator tip as it suits my needs.

Using a brush will gunk up the brush quickly and make it unuseable.