Fold, Cut, Score, Scribe or Bend paper

[bagpiper]

I am on my second paper model so still learning. How do you fold paper models? Do you score on the opposite side to the fold? same side as the fold? Score it, bend it, lightly cut it? I have tried all of these but not really sure if there is any that is recommended. The paper I use is 100 pound Wausau Exact Index paper.

Whatever I have tried so far leaves a buckle in the paper on the valley side of the paper.

I guess this opens a second part to the question. Do you cut/score or whatever on the side of the fold? So on the valley side for a valley fold or would you do opposite to the visible side?

Anyhoo I hope you understand what I'm asking.

I will keep experimenting but any tips that work for you would be appreciated.

Cheers
Jim

[SCEtoAUX]

I do not cut into the part to make a score for the fold line. What I usually do is use an embossing tool or a small crocheting needle to put a shallow depression along the fold line by putting the page on a kind of soft pad, like the thick backing from a pad of paper, and running the tool along the fold line using a straight edge to guide the tool. I then use an old utility knife blade to make the fold by placing the edge along the fold and bending the part over the blade. For long folds I use a metal straight edge like a metal ruler and make the fold by placing the fold line along the edge of the ruler and folding over on the edge. Sometimes two metal rulers are used somewhat like a bending brake to make the longer folds.

Some designers recommend making reverse scores for some folds but I have not had any problems yet just making the score on the printed side. If you want to make reverse scores try puting the parts page on a bright window with the printed side facing out and mark the fold lines on the back of the page. Then place the page on whatever backing you use and make the scores. Another method is to make small pin pricks on the waste paper just outside either end of the fold line when possible then turn the page over and score between the holes. You could also buy or make a light tracing box to help in seeing where the fold lines are when marking them from the reverse side.

Forgot to mention that curved score lines are done free hand. Works good most of the time, depending on what music is playing and if it is a good part of the song. Tull usually is the culprit when scores go astray.

[Lex]

I almost never score, relying on the straight edge of my tweezers to do the work instead - but maybe it's because I don't build big straight-edged box structures...

Your problems depend on what kind of model you want to build... Different designs respect differing treatments

[cgutzmer]

For me EXACTLY what Doug says above - I even use the same scoring tool in the pic (available at wal mart)
Chris

[Sakrison]

I use a t-pin to score folds. You want to compress the score line a bit but not break the surface of the paper. It may break when you fold it; use an artist's pencil or marker to darken the white paper edge. (You don't need to match the color--just the contrast. I use watercolor pencils in several shades of grey.)

Scoring on the front ("mountain") side of the fold will give you the sharpest fold. Scoring on the back ("valley") side of a piece will give you a slightly rounded fold--useful for things like the leading edges of aircraft wings and tailfeathers.

[Sakrison]

Don't use a nail or hardware store scriber. They are too sharp and will damage the paper surface. For a good homemade scoring tool, cut the head off of a t-pin or the sharp end off of a medium-sized safety pin; drill a hole in the end of a 1/4" dowel; and superglue the pin into the dowel. Or if you live near a university, go to the university book store and buy a dissecting probe--a heavy-duty straight pin with a wooden or plastic handle.

When you use the scriber--whatever it is--keep the angle between the scriber and the paper at around 30 to 45 degrees. That will give you the cleanest score and best control. I sometimes use a cheap set of plastic French curves (drafting tools) to help score curved lines, but mostly I use my steel straightedge to guide straight-line scores and do the curved ones freehand. A little practice and not hurrying should give you good results.

Cheers,
--David

[bagpiper]

Thanks Everyone. Lot's of ideas to try out and some new tools to go and buy. We have a Super Wallmart just a mile away so looks like I am going shopping.

Love the idea about using the pencils as well.

As always thanks to everyone for their efforts. I am sure I could get there eventually but we have centuries of experience so I would be a fool not to use it. One of these days I hope to repay the help.

Cheers all

Jim

[cgutzmer]

One thing to be careful of with the pencils is you dont want to press hard and soften the edge - it should remain sharp and crisp. If you have problems with blades getting dull you might be using xacto blades - next step up will be excel blades then after that I suggest scalpels. I like scalpels since they are hardened steel and keep an edge for a long time. I can do an entire good sized model with one blade. They are also sharpened on both sides which splits the paper more uniformly reducing the slight mound you get on one side using the xacto type blades that are sharpened on one side.
Thanks!
Chris

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by cgutzmer

One thing to be careful of with the pencils is you dont want to press hard and soften the edge - it should remain sharp and crisp. If you have problems with blades getting dull you might be using xacto blades - next step up will be excel blades then after that I suggest scalpels. I like scalpels since they are hardened steel and keep an edge for a long time. I can do an entire good sized model with one blade. They are also sharpened on both sides which splits the paper more uniformly reducing the slight mound you get on one side using the xacto type blades that are sharpened on one side.
Thanks!
Chris

Look I know you guys are gurus but you must be a mind reader as well. :D
yes! I am using X-Acto blades. And Yes! they get dull really quickly. Indeed I am using at least two blades per model and they are not big models. And I'm using a cutting mat. Thanks for that tip mate.

Cheers
Jim

[wag]

I've been experimenting with using an old pizza cutter for scoring long straight lines. It works fairly well-only downside is the wheel part is just held on by a rivet and it wobbles a little bit. You can also use a pin vise for holding a needle-which allows you to change needles easily when you bend one.
Wayne