Covering up fold lines and edges

[ghshinn]

This has turned out to be a very useful thread for me, as well. I've been paper modeling for several years, and had no idea about water-based pencils. That's one of the great things about this site. Always something new to learn.

Garland

[lancer525]

I've always designed with the intention of using colored stock, so as to not get a white edge, and those models I've built from other designers, I have tried to print on colored stock, for the same reason. If the paper is the same color all the way through, then you never have to worry about coloring the edges. They already are...

[Swampfox]

Originally Posted by lancer525

I've always designed with the intention of using colored stock, so as to not get a white edge, and those models I've built from other designers, I have tried to print on colored stock, for the same reason. If the paper is the same color all the way through, then you never have to worry about coloring the edges. They already are...

I must admit, I too print on colored stock, but it only works for the group of colors that reasonable match the main color of the model. ......Unless I'm building a Stealth Bomber!!

How do you get the paper to change color for the other colors on the model!!

Seriously, I find that the fiber, texture, (other characteristics) of colored paper don't tend to lend themselves to extensive usage in paper model building.

What brands of colored card stock do you use?

Thanks,
SFX

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by spgifford

Good job on the question Piper, this thread has turned out great with LOTS of great ideas to try!

By the way, the towers came out great, good job hiding the dashed lines.

Thanks mate. I hope to show some more pictures of my trying out the other techniques suggested when I get a moment.

I like the tower because it was part of my learning in how to score lines - and that's were this thread came from. As you can see the edges are square but covered in those dotted lines and white edges.

Anyhoo thanks for your kind words.

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by ghshinn

This has turned out to be a very useful thread for me, as well. I've been paper modeling for several years, and had no idea about water-based pencils. That's one of the great things about this site. Always something new to learn.

Garland

The water based crayons were also news to me. they were always wax in my day. lol But agreed! This has been a very useful thread indeed.

Cheers
Jim

[Swampfox]

Originally Posted by bagpiper

The water based crayons were also news to me. they were always wax in my day. lol But agreed! This has been a very useful thread indeed.

I may have given the impression that you can't do this with wax based pencils, BUT you have to use turpentine as a solvent, and that can lead to heavier drug use and make a mess out of your model......... however, you wouldn't care because the turp makes things right;-)

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by Swampfox

I may have given the impression that you can't do this with wax based pencils, BUT you have to use turpentine as a solvent, and that can lead to heavier drug use and make a mess out of your model......... however, you wouldn't care because the turp makes things right;-)

Thanks for clarifying mate but your words did not give any impression to me that you couldn't use them.

Kind of you to make sure we all understood that.

I suppose that water based pencils - you can dip in your iced water if needed. Wax pencils can be dipped in the Johnny walker black label if needed. See! I understand perfectly. lol "yes dear" The Scotch is purely to soften the wax' and "Of course I need a full glass of the stuff" :D

Si, entiendo perfecto.

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

Well! I couldn't find the crayons that Don recommended so I bought a small set of Steadtler Watercolour Crayons.

This time I was able to get a before and after picture of the same edge for comparison. I need to darken the green but I managed to use the colours to get the red brick and the white concrete fairly well coloured in.

Anyhoo here is the results of that test. First image is a before picture. Second image is after using the wax crayons and the last image is the colours and paint tray I used for this test. I do like the white crayon but need to learn how to use it better but overall, not too bad.

Cheers
Jim

[bagpiper]

OK. Here is the one issue that has not yet been covered and it is explained in the pictures. If we take the lamp first. I was able to get rid of the white easily with the PITT artist pen. It really has a very fluid feel and if you are not careful you can easily put to much ink on but as you can see it worked fine. Second image shows how this was a no brainer.

The problem is how to clear the white diagonal lines on the tan roof. Yes the build could have been better but this was my second model. So! I tried the crayons but don't have that colour. Tried the pencils too but could not get them to work right. Any ideas on this problem? This is very different as the lines are in the middle of a piece and not a hard corner like all the rest.

How about using some sort of filler and paint over it? Comments! Suggestions!

Perhaps I just need to get the right colour of pencil/crayon/PITTS pen and it is that simple.

Looks like there are a lot of people finding this thread usefull so I hope that my showing you how I used these tips is also of help.

I still also need to try the pencils that Doug suggested. Don't seem to have them locally so looks like I need to place an order.

Thanks as always.

Cheers
Jim

[lancer525]

Originally Posted by Swampfox

I must admit, I too print on colored stock, but it only works for the group of colors that reasonable match the main color of the model. ......Unless I'm building a Stealth Bomber!!

How do you get the paper to change color for the other colors on the model!!

I've never found that to be a problem. You match the general groups of colors to the stock closest to the color you need, and go from there. Best most recent example I can give you is the teak decking parts I'm designing for the Montana-class Battleship I'm doing. I know how faux wood-graining is done. You start with the lightest color found in the woodgrain, and paint your entire piece with that color, then go back and add the darker colors as the grain lines. The reason I explained this is that I found a nice mustard-colored stock that matches the base tone for the wood of the decks, and overlaid the woodgrain in darker tones on the paper. When I cut each piece out, it will have that same base tone across the edge. Lengthy explanation, but that's how it's done.

Seriously, I find that the fiber, texture, (other characteristics) of colored paper don't tend to lend themselves to extensive usage in paper model building.

I've never had that problem either. In fact, I don't see how it could be a problem. Almost all kinds of cardstock are all made the same way. This strikes me just like those audiophiles who claim they can tell the difference between a $100 stereo and their $5000 tuner with $3000 speakers. Which ain't so... The human ear just isn't that sensitive. I'm not entirely sure what cardstock you've been using, but not one of the colored stocks I have ever used is any different in texture, feel, fiber, grain, or any other characteristic than any other cardstock I have used. The only differences were in weight.

What brands of colored card stock do you use?

I've used ColorMates, Bazzil, and a few others from various hobby/craft stores like Michaels and Hobby Lobby. If the paper is the right weight and color, I use it, and have never had a problem. Not once.

Thanks,
SFX

You're very welcome! :D