Wrong paper; maybe?

**locomolarry** · #1 06-23-2010, 06:08 AM

I told you folks I am new and learning. So I have what may be a dumb(and redundant) question. I am working on a GeeBee. And since I have such a crappy printer; I took the file and had Office Max print it out for me. When I went back to pick it up; I noticed that the copys were somewhat glossy. Not as glossy as photos, but I guess you might say semi-gloss. I have been using Elmers and Aileens to assemble and when I try to form the fuse pieces; the joiners are peeling right back apart from the fuse sections. SOOOO; I tried my CA glue to rebond the pieces and again the parts are still "un-bonding". So I have a two-part question. First, is there any way that sanding these copies may help them bond better as I have four sets? And, second. When I have Max make other copies of parts; what kind of paper do I want to ask them to use? Thanks in advance for any help nad assistance you all can be.
Frustrated, but still plugging away at it,:(

**Tim Crowe** · #2 06-23-2010, 06:30 AM

Sound like you're having fun. All part of the learning process.

Re the 'Glossy' finish. Are the pages printed on a laser jet rather than an ink jet printer.

Also your bonding problem, are you pre-forming the parts first to shape? rather than relying on the glue to hold the part under tension.

Showing a picture might help.

Good luck

Tim

**locomolarry** · #3 06-23-2010, 06:45 AM

Never thought about what kind of printer they're using. I will have to call them and ask later. Preforming is done after I put the petal/joiner strips on the fuse pieces.....is this wrong? The parts are seperating cleanly. Just as though they were not glued yet. At this point, I don't think a pic would really help as nothing is assembled yet and my camera is not showing good degree of glossiness of print and paper.

**Don Boose** · #4 06-23-2010, 08:10 AM

I love this kind of question, which always prompts a series of very useful responses from which I learn a lot. I don't have anything to contribute here, but appreciate your asking, Larry, and I look forward to seeing your Gee Bee take shape here.

Don

**locomolarry** · #5 06-23-2010, 08:20 AM

Well. I just called Office Max and found out that they use laser printers. Under my 4x magnifier the prints look almost as smooth as glass. I'm thinking no pourosity for the glue to grab. And that maybe if I rough the surface with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper to give the surface some "teeth" for the glue to grab; maybe I can fix my bonding problem. I'm going to try it. Sure can't hurt.
Thanks Tim.

**Tapcho** · #6 06-23-2010, 09:00 AM

I'm regulary printing on glossy paper and have no problems either with CA or PVA (or other types for that matter). I preform every pice (to reduce the possible tension in the part itself but that's pretty much all I do. I haven't noticed any bonding problems/differences between different types/weights/brands of paper - am I just lucky, I don't know? The aper types I use are branded photo quality papers with either matte/semigloss/gloss surface. CA should stick with any surface and the only thing that weakens the bondage is grease (from your finger tips for instance). PVA types of glues peals easily off from 'plastic' kind of surfaces - water soluable glues need to penetrate into the paper to be able to form a strong bond. Hope this helps.

**Groovin_Fusion** · #7 06-23-2010, 09:09 AM

I agree, what you got was a Laser print, in my and I think some others opinions, is not good for paper modeling. Inkjets work the best. Here's a solution. Being financially challenged, I went to Walmart and looked for an affordable printer. I picked up a Canon MP250 for 44$, an excellent price since it came with filled cart's. This printer prints very nice for it's price and I am very happy with it. The other thing with with laser prints, from what I have heard , the print will actually crack if it is bent.

**cgutzmer** · #8 06-23-2010, 09:27 AM

I have had a few models printed at office max. Definitely laser and I believe they are now using all solid inks. It will likely crack where you bend (the ink) unless you spray the model first with a sealer. I have found that photo paper delaminates pretty easily, you usually need to sand the back portion where you want it to stick to get a good bond with white type glues - I have yet to use CA so cant speak there. Also you MUST preform the parts nearly to perfection before gluing them or they will delaminate like what happened to you.

my personal sugestion (if you insist on fairly costly prints at office max rather than getting a new and likely inexpensive inkjet) is take your OWN paper for them to print the models out. Then you know its exactly what you want and are comfortable using

You should still spray seal the paper to keep the inks from cracking.
Chris

**locomolarry** · #9 06-23-2010, 09:46 AM

Hmmm. Never thought about the oily skin thing and I am one of those people who has excessively oily skin. That could be a problem. I am breaking out another set of printed parts and starting over taking into account all the advice and see what happens. Will update in awhile. You guys here are A+.

**Maltedfalcon** · #10 06-23-2010, 11:28 AM

laser printing is known to not hold a glue joint.
even if it holds at first it can relase after a few months. as the glue shrinks from longterm drying or the paper flexes from changes in humidity.

solutions that have been tried
non-waterbased glue.
uhu has a cardboard/paper glue that seems very much like plastic model cement. (clear, has a solvent smell, dries very quickly) it holds laser printed paper very well

sanding or scraping off toner where the glue is to be applied.