Ojimak F-22 Raptor

[cafe]

That's the problem I always had with "Uhu Stic", even when I was using them in elementary school. I never had that problem with other Uhu glues.



The blue and black tube was what I used until the early 2000s when I couldn't find it anymore. After trying different glues that suffered from the same warping/wrinkling issues, I happily settled on Uhu's "twist & glue".

By the way, what are the advantages of the solvent free version (green collar) over the normal one (black collar)?

[legion]

Are you sure you didn't use a photobook type of glue? Those tend to fall apart quickly, due to never drying completely.

And even my oldest model is still together.

[papermate]

Hey guys, Cafe and Legion, you're in Europe and UHU is a German product, but maybe of different packaging in Asia. The blue and black tube in Cafe's post is, in my opinion, the equivalent of the yellow tube that I have posted. It holds paper together for good and until and unless you tear it apart, it will stay glued together for as long as it lasts. I use a syringe to fill up with UHU and apply it to slits, corners or whatever, where fingers can't reach. The needle point is first dull to prevent accident and the syringe is re-usable for a few times. The only problem is to find a need or pin small enough as a stop/cover for the syringe when it lays around.

Papermate

[FoamHeadMike]

That reminds me of something I should probably mention about working with the Beacons Fabri Tac which is a really great feature I love.
when you apply the glue and press the two parts to be glued together it will give you ample time to make proper adjustments and when you press the parts together with your fingers it sticks to the paper and not your fingers the glue is easily removed from skin.
Just thought I might mention that

[HMCS]

"zip dry" glue that is sold in michaels is awesome,.. its almost instant and meant for paper

[gregh]

Guy's, thanks for the tips on glues. Yes i agree with Chaiwat - UHU 'twist&glue' is bad - wrinkles paper, warps card stock. Think i will stay with Aleene's untill i can try some Fabri-Tac

[FoamHeadMike]

gregh
I have been working with that Aleens white glue (like Elmers School glue)

I put some of the glue in a short pill bottle and apply it with a fine line paint brush which allows me to have more control of the amount and coverage that is applied to the card stock .
turns out to work very good that way,, the glue will bond almost instantly when the parts are pressed together if the glue is applied very thin.
probably even better than the fabri tac when applied with a fine art paint brush.

[HMCS]

whats cool about the zip dry glue is that if some oozes out of the seam if you wait a few more seconds while it sets you can literally wipe/peel it of with no damage to the artwork and it makes for one heck of a clean model,... the glue drys to a rubber cement type consistency but it is darn near instant,..

[azamkl]

Guys, I've been building Ojimak Paper model and found out the paper weight to scale size ration doesn't seem to be matching and cause my model not to fly even a few feet. End up ditching and sometimes goes head straight to the ground Btw, I'm using a 80gsm A4 Print Paper.

I have also built another paper aircraft, which I bought it in paperaircrafts.com and flew well. It seems that the scale provided b Ojimak not suitable and not flyable if using 80gsm paper. I was thinking of editing it and making a bit bigger to compensate the paper to scale ratio.

Anyone has tried it before? What do you guys think about it?

[3Turner]

Perhaps don't use all three strips of ballast in the nose. Or bend slightly upwards the trailing edges of the tail surfaces to force the plane to nose up after throwing.

I couldn't find what paper weight he recommends for his models.