#11
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First draft
Alright, as I began to do this, I imagined a large, multi page document on judging card models.
Then, after reading and thinking about the judging handbook, I realized most of the judging criteria is the same no matter what media you model in. So, I boiled it down to its simplest form, the differences of judging a card model. Feel free to throw in possible additional ideas. All input is appreciated. Just keep in mind, most items are covered in the judging handbook already, and do apply. What we are looking for are the items unique to card modelling that a judge would need to look for.
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Ray Respect the Paper, RESPECT IT! GET OFF MY LAWN! |
#12
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Thanks Ray - We definitely need to stay within the current IPMS guidelines most of which apply to our form as well as theirs. I suppose overall our goal is to help inform the judges about what makes a good model and what is possibly more difficult to achieve in our medium. here is the current competition handbook (which is undergoing an update which has not been released yet)
Thanks Chris Drat - its too big at 242k..... I will upload it to my server tonight and link to it.
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#13
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Worth considering the effect on the final printout quality of both ink choice and paper quality choice. This will have quite an impact on the quality of the model, and they are unique to paper models.
Ink Colouring - should be even, no obvious gaps, best quality should be used as a printer setting Paper - Photo quality paper (or a gloss/matt layered paper) should be used, although the choice is down to user experience |
#14
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i concur its relevant
Chris
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#15
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Yes, and I factored that in when I listed it in item C,1, b, covering finishes.
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Ray Respect the Paper, RESPECT IT! GET OFF MY LAWN! |
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#16
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What if the model is scratch built - not a kit would that be rated higher or lower than a similar model that is a kit?
What if the model was designed by the builder and is now a kit. Does that count as scratchbuilt? or Kit? head to head a paper vs plastic model where they are virtually identical, Does the plastic model rate higher because the modeler had to create the paint job. What if the builder of the paper model was the designer, does he get points for creating the paint job digitally that the model was pre-printed with? Is the finish on pre-printed model judged the same as a the finish on a self printed model? If a model is built exactly as designed, (for instance with tabs rather then smooth seams, is that judged differently than a similar model that was designed without tabs? Does maintaining the original finish without flaws count more or less then an identical model that was repainted after assembly. |
#17
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Do seams that are not on the original object detract?
i.e seams in a petal nose or seams in a compound curve shape? if so then does a model with a petal nose grade lower than a model whose nose is replaced with a vacuformed nose, Is a well formed petal nose graded the same as a nose that has been formed, sanded, puttyied and re-painted? |
#18
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I can help here a bit (though never really judged so its an educated guess)
Scratch built or not does not matter - its the final representation If the seams are apparent and not along where a naturalpanel line exists then it will hurt. original finish vs repainted would fall under the out of box type I think.... If the petals leave seams where none should exist it will likely count against you. The difficulty of seams is likely going to be the hardest thing to overcome in our particular material of choice.
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Want to buy some models from independent designers? http://www.ecardmodels.com and visit the shop! |
#19
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Scratchbuilt vs OOB is a tough one. I prefer to make my own designs, but I am no artist so the artwork detail is fairly basic on mine, and can't compete with a papercraft model from the Canon website for example.
Consequently, I will have made designed, coloured and scratch built my own model of Taj Mahal for example, but it would probably lose out to a Canon OOB. However, I do stand a chance if it is unique. MaybeI should give myself an easier ride and just go for OOB. |
#20
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Having judged numerous model events, I offer my thoughts (within the judging realm) of how I see it.
What if the model is scratch built - not a kit would that be rated higher or lower than a similar model that is a kit? They models would be two separate categories. What if the model was designed by the builder and is now a kit. Does that count as scratchbuilt? or Kit? It would count as a kit since it is now marketed to the public. Scratchbuilt would be for a one of a kind item. head to head a paper vs plastic model where they are virtually identical, Does the plastic model rate higher because the modeler had to create the paint job. They would be two separate categories. Plastic kit, paper kit. What if the builder of the paper model was the designer, does he get points for creating the paint job digitally that the model was pre-printed with? I’m not certain of the question here. This would also fit under the scratchbuilt category I would think. Is the finish on pre-printed model judged the same as a the finish on a self printed model? Hmm, this is a good question. It warrants further discussion. I would say it is judged the same way, as there are ways to vary the finish of a self printed model. If a model is built exactly as designed, (for instance with tabs rather then smooth seams, is that judged differently than a similar model that was designed without tabs? They would be judged under the same criteria. It would be up to the modeler to make his choice of how to join the parts, and then build it to meet the judging criteria. Does maintaining the original finish without flaws count more or less then an identical model that was repainted after assembly. I would think not. If a modeler repaints a kit after assembly, it is up to the modeler to maintain a building standard. Do seams that are not on the original object detract? i.e seams in a petal nose or seams in a compound curve shape? Again, good question, but I believe that would be a subjective area, within the limitations of paper kits. The criteria would be how well the seams are concealed. if so then does a model with a petal nose grade lower than a model whose nose is replaced with a vacuformed nose. I think this is where the level of the rest of the work would be a factor. If a model is not done to a high standard overall, and has a vacuformed nose, then it would not score overall as high as a kit built to a consistent high standard with a well done “petal” nose Is a well formed petal nose graded the same as a nose that has been formed, sanded, puttyied and re-painted? If both noses are paper, and both look well, it would be a case of which looks better overall, within the appearance and standard of the rest of the kit
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Ray Respect the Paper, RESPECT IT! GET OFF MY LAWN! |
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