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  #91  
Old 03-08-2020, 12:03 PM
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sgoti sgoti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermin_King View Post
Most of the folks I know that use cutters use the Silhouette Cameo. In reviews from crafters, who are doing fabric patterns and things other than what we do, they think the software is difficult. But for what we do, if you have any experience with image software, it is supposed to be pretty easy. It has an option for scanning and cutting, but nobody uses it because it is 'iffy'. And it is in the $300 range, not $700. The only complaint I have heard about it from papercrafters is that the cutting mat does not last very long. Many will buy a Cricut mat instead, because they last much longer
Where did you see it has the option for scanning and cutting?

These machines can read registration marks, but you have to print those when you are printing your design. (Which also limits your print area, which means more brain damage, which...)

Unless there's a new Cameo model out with even more features, you cannot scan pre-printed sheets with a Cameo.

You are absolutely right on the cutting mat, though. The Silhouette mat is not as long-lived as the Cricut mat.

To be fair, I did hasten my Silhouette mat's demise by using the wrong cut settings...

I have also heard of people using cheap plastic baking sheets from the dollar store for cutting mats. Spray a little Krylon temporary adhesive on it and you're good to go!
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  #92  
Old 03-09-2020, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdave View Post
Not all diecast are that bad.
True, I was referring to the 1/18 stuff I've seen retailing for over $200 each... In comparison to a 1/24 plastic kit at around $30 to $50.


Quote:
Did you know that Hot Wheels are basically still the same price they were in 1968!
If you account for inflation, they're actually cheaper!
Yes, that still surprises me today when I see them on sale in stores for under $2 but I assume the production costs have also come down considerably, along with the quality and durability. I still have some of my original Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars, they've outlasted most of the newer Hot Wheels I started buying for my son about 10 years ago.

Also, my Scan n Cut makes cool noises when it's cutting. (Just keeping the thread on track)
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  #93  
Old 02-20-2021, 02:33 PM
RAFleischman RAFleischman is offline
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How does the Scan n Cut do with just cutting 2mm frames (I.e following a black line)? I enjoy cutting out the kits, but those frames give me fits. Buying laser cut frames from Poland can be an expensive proposition!

Thanks,
Russ
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  #94  
Old 06-16-2021, 07:19 AM
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I've just bought one and it struggles with card 1mm or thicker. Have been looking at cutting from 0.5mm and laminating former parts.

Tried this tonight but the cutter is not cutting at all. Wondering if I damaged the blade trying to cut plastic card..? Been getting a message "Attach appropraite holder" whihc is not in the manual.

Wondering if anyone has bene here...?
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Old 06-16-2021, 08:14 AM
RAFleischman RAFleischman is offline
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Thanks for the info!

Please continue to document your experiences with this machine.

Thanks again,
Russ
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  #96  
Old 06-16-2021, 05:26 PM
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I have been posting progress with the cutter here: Simon's Models
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  #97  
Old 06-16-2021, 06:50 PM
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Problem solved.

Awesome support from Brother New Zealand. Within 2 minutes of logging a job online, a CSO was on the phone and helping work through troubleshooting.

The issue seemed to revolve around the blade holder. The CSO hung up to do some more research and as I replaced the blade holder, I noticed a small - grain of salt size - piece of debris drop away from the locking lever hinge. A quick puff og compressed air and it was blown clear of the cutter.

Did a test run and it went back to cutting perfectly.

Cleanliness in the key apparently. Even a minute particle of cutting debris can obstruct a circuit or a mechanism enough to affect the operation.
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  #98  
Old 06-17-2021, 01:51 PM
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Hi Simon...
Brother does make a deep cut blade (at least they did when I bought my 350. )
Most of the sites I've been to offering tips recommend several passes when cutting thick stock.

I bought mine with the hope of just printing out the sheet, scanning it, and having all the parts cut out like magic.... It just won't work like that. I've wound up printing the sheet, scanning it, using the Brother design software website, and manually adjusting the result. A lot of work, but sometimes, it's worth it.

All my best to you...

P-lite
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  #99  
Old 06-17-2021, 05:39 PM
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Which throws up a characteristic of these cutting machines.
To achieve a large cutting depth a cutter needs to be able to rotate to follow curves and other direction changes as well as being substantial enough to withstand the forces involved.

The Cameo deep cutter blade is shaped roughly as shown below and I doubt other brands are much different.

The pics on Simon's site show the results.
Since no material is actually removed the cut is a deep 'V' shape with displaced material piled up in ridges on both sides of the cut.

If vertical edges to a part are needed it's perhaps best to cut multiple identical pieces from thinner stock and laminate. That leaves only the problems of correct alignment and ensuring the combination doesn't warp while drying.

Elsewise splash out on a laser cutter that vapourises stuff leaving scorched edges that are vertical.
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  #100  
Old 06-18-2021, 05:13 AM
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Perhaps cutting alignment holes in each part when cutting multiple identical pieces from thinner stock would help. Then use a jig with dowels that go through the holes to align them when stacking and glueing.
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