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Old 08-24-2010, 07:11 AM
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FGMMx - SB2C Helldiver

An FG classic with the landing gear modified a bit (tire is a card circle laminated around a dowel, stock "toothpick," detail bits cut and reattached), wing spars added (this one may see more than usual handling) and a swap for a four bladed prop.

FGMMx - SB2C Helldiver-fg-helldiver3.jpg

FGMMx - SB2C Helldiver-fg-helldiver4.jpg

Toothpick will be trimmed so it penetrates the bottom of the wing and contacts (with a spot of glue to keep it in place) the inside of the top wing surface.

FGMMx - SB2C Helldiver-fg-helldiver2.jpg

Combination of likely handling and no real stock attachment dictates some kind of wing mount. Two spars seemed simplest - with the dihedral angle pulled from the 3-view on the instruction sheet. Slip the wings over the spars, scribe the fuselage profile, cut to fit, then glue it up. Fairings make it all neat in the end.

FGMMx - SB2C Helldiver-fg-helldiver6.jpg

FGMMx - SB2C Helldiver-fg-helldiver5.jpg

Yogi
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:14 AM
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Nice work, Yogi! Fairing came out fine and the work with the supports was smart.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:39 AM
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Wonderful, Yogi, a good, clean build. I love the WWII era craft that FG puts out. I'm gonna try building the Helldiver using your "spars" to see if I can match what you've done.

Garland
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:09 AM
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Great, Garland. I made a pretty simple structure, the front spar is matched to the dihedral angle of the bottom of the wing and follows the thickness taper of the wing; it locates the part. The aft spar matches the wing's bottom dihedral and is located so its bottom edge lines up with the bottom edge of the front spar; however, the aft spar is constant height and only made of two laminations. As the wing slips over it, the aft spar can flex forward if needed to clear the trailing edge thickness/taper while the spar's bottom keeps the wing aligned. In this case, I put glue only on the bottom edge of the aft spar (top and bottom for the front one).

This particular FG model's graphics were symmetric - allowing me to use them to locate the spars. That said, building this one stock would be a challenge since the wings would be edge glued to the flat (well, pretty much cylindrical actually, and at a slight angle) surface of the fuselage (no tabs here). To get a good fit you'd need to do a very precise job of scribing the fuselage shape onto the wing roots (and how you'd hold them in place at the correct angle and position I haven't a clue).

Yogi
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:13 AM
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Excellent. I tried some similar (but far less elegant) mods when I built this one. Now I want to try again, making use of this valuable information.

The Beast was not always well-loved, but it sure did Yeoman duty and I always thought it was a grand-looking airplane.

Don
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:25 AM
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Wing Spars

If it helps - one more photo of the wing spars going in. The difference in the profile between the forward and aft spar is more evident. The thought process was to let the forward spar support the wing surfaces and use the aft spar to keep everything aligned using the lower wing surface and kit markings as the reference (trying to also match the top surface with the aft spar is an unnecessary complication - that's my story). The spars are one piece (3 laminations front, 2 layers of cereal card aft) and pass through [carefully] cut slots in the fuselage.

FGMMx - SB2C Helldiver-fg-helldiver1.jpg

Just started scribing the starboard wing root - haven't cut yet in this pic.

Yogi (simplicate, and add lightness ...)
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:49 AM
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I concur with Garland - a lovely clean build Yogi. The fairings look absolutely perfect .
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:03 PM
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Thanks for the extra information, Yogi. I was wondering about the difference between the forward and aft spars. Also I was wondering if you had cut slots into the fuselage for them.

One question. What did you use to scribe the wing roots?

Garland
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghshinn View Post
One question. What did you use to scribe the wing roots?
Garland
.5mm mechanical pencil and a finger tip.

Start on the top of the wing at the widest point of the gap, pencil point on the edge with a finger tip touching the side of the fuselage, then slide along and mark the wing. Eyeball the result and redo if needed. When happy, cut (as little as possible, you can always take more later). Check the fit on that surface, turn everything over, and see how much work you'll need to do on the other side. You may end up with a tight fit on one surface and an even gap on the other - requiring one more trim on the tight side.

Yogi
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:46 PM
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Thanks again. I'll give it a try.

Garland
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