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#11
02-13-2008, 10:21 PM
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Upon examination of the actual model... yes, the fit around the red band is cruddy. I got it to fit nicely to the tail section but I couldn't make it match to the fuselage. I assumed (and still assume) that it was my poor ability and patience with tail assemblies. The last picture is an old one, the first three are hand held (sorry about the blur). I'm not certain that it couldn't be made to fit but it is definitely a bugger. I absolutely hate models with the multi scale tail-to-fuselage join. Even if well built it always looks sort of goofy to me.
I guess that you need to pay extra attention to that tail joint! Carl 
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#12
02-14-2008, 10:44 AM
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Thanks for the pics, that looks nice, how much weight you think the nose needs? I noticed by the photos on the kit that the tail area wasn't very cleanly made, so did do that differently. however, I think it's my own lack of experience causing some of the problems with the formers, the p-38 I did had a former butted up to the next at each joint, and I'm not sure what the designer had in mind with these single formers at each joint, especially with the one that opens. anyway heres my progress, first part, nose guns and cockpit, skinning the fuse, wing forming
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...38build020.jpg http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...38build022.jpg http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...38build024.jpg http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...38build023.jpg http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...38build025.jpg the skin over the guns is not glued down and plan to open I like Carl's detail added to the gun feeds, still he's right, the level of detail in the cockpit ect is not really that high, but still looks good I think\ Glen Last edited by birder; 02-14-2008 at 10:51 AM.
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#14
02-14-2008, 11:36 AM
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I don't know that it needs a lot of weight in the nose. If I were to try it again I would use lead shot (for weighting fishing lines) and just fill up the little nose cone. That would probably do it. For the gun panels I formed the piece as one and put it together and then cut them loose - I think that is what you are describing.
I'm not certain but it seems from your message that you haven't worked with the former and joiner method for fuselages before. Most people consider it easier to work with. When you build the bulkheads you can cut a hole in it so that you can poke through it to things on the other side if necessary. In this system each section has only a single bulkhead installed, AFTER putting in the joiner strip. I always fit the joiner strip after rolling and shaping the tube but before installing the bulkhead. It is a little more difficult, but not much, and it doesn't have the fit issues that occur if you glue on the former before rolling. To glue it on after wards, start by fastening only the section at the top where the alignment marks are. After that begins to set, then work your way around one side and the other, gluing only as much as you can correctly place. Little clothespins are nice for holding stuff in place while the glue sets. Then you can put in your bulkhead from the far, and usually larger, end. I like to cut a small notch in the bulkhead and jam a small screwdriver into the notch so that I can pull and rotate the bulkhead until it is perfectly positioned. Naturally you should dry fit the parts about a million times and use the sandpaper to get the bulkheads just right. I did not on this Me262 model because I was trying a new kind of material for bulkheads and things just didn't work well. This is among my worst builds, unfortunately. Sorry if the above is presumptuous and based on faulty understanding. Someone else might be able to glean something useful from it in any case! Looking forward to seeing the build. Carl
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#15
02-14-2008, 11:53 AM
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Nice idea about the small screwdriver. I have a set of 'picks' that I picked up, one straight and a few with curves / spirals on the end that I use to help position / fit the bulkheads - but I've never thought about the idea of having something attached like a screwdriver - I'll use that at some point now.
As far as joining strips - I agree about gluing them on after forming the section - but this is one of the places I like good old white PVA glue. I can glue the whole thing (starting in the center with the alignment mark as GB suggested) at once that way - and adjust it back and forth to fit. I tried Aileens with a couple of these on the Beaufort, and ended up going back and fixing areas with more glue where I had the joining strip loose from the main section. One other thing I do with joining strips has to do with putting the 2 pieces together. If you put the glue on the inside of the part that fits onto the joining strips, any extra glue gets pushed into the part and not squished out onto the final part surface. This allows more glue to be put there, and for me anyway that usually means a much stronger joint 
__________________
-Dan
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#17
02-14-2008, 01:01 PM
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That's alot of help for me, Carl and Dan, because this is a different type of construction for me as you were thinking, all these years of making/designing in the last few years has been for fg type models, although Ive done a few others, p******c ect, and your explanation is helpful. I ended up doing something like that but not as precise as you describe. I did notice if I glue the joiner strip on too liberally that it shows through a little on the outside, so again its a learning curve, but fun!
Glen
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#18
02-14-2008, 01:08 PM
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I cut my teeth on Wilhelmshavener kits. They have a joining strip method, with no 'teeth' to help the curves and no laminating for thickness of the formers. (Well, that's how they were when I built them, haven't bought any recent ones). While I'll defer to GB for his expertise, I have done a few assemblies like this one - so I'll share what experience I have to see if it helps anybody when I can
__________________
-Dan
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#20
02-14-2008, 01:39 PM
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you know, Dan this is a pretty nice build really, and still fairly easily avail? I bought mine from Old Troll, but I think is still in print, and was 1/2 cost of most planes I was looking at,
designer is reputable, as well
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