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#11
06-24-2009, 07:12 AM
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where's that build we are all anxiously waiting for?:p
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#12
06-24-2009, 03:23 PM
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Working on working on it - am looking to start with the engines but the instructions are not very clear and there are a number of parts that are probably superfluous like <1mm hex nuts. The cooling fin system for the cylinders will need work so that it doesn't look like a stack of paper rings...
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#13
06-24-2009, 05:14 PM
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I'm actually watching this with interest since I have always wanted to build this kit. I know it would be an effort beyond just the kit to do so.
For the wing spars you could use wood, like Lala has for her ship. Thin plywood is readily available around here (in Oregon) which indicates to me that it should pretty much be available in any remote part of the world! However, I might consider piano wire (steel) or florest wire long supports through the wings. They are easy to mount (just punch holes through the sections) and give huge strenghth/weight benefit. Please show photos of what you do. This is a very interesting project. Carl
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#14
06-24-2009, 06:23 PM
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Thanks, Carl
I have bene thinking along similar lines as this is not a problem I have encountered before. Although I have other models with a similar wingspan, none of them have wings as thin as these ones, nor resting upon such delicate landing gear (if you extended the undercarriage legs by a foot and half, you probably could use a 1/32 Vulcan as a coffee table!) so it's a question of weight (less the better) and strength (more the better). My Plan B will be to take a page from Roden's Staaken and have the wingtips supported by ground crew or some other props - Wingnut have started a very nice line in 1/32 WW1 air and ground crew and they might find a home here. I'm going to set up a build thread tonight when I get home (and so can start with a pic or two), and will include a link back to this thread and vice versa. I'm applying a 'eat your veges before your meat' philosophy in that I want to get the fiddle repetitive stuff out of the way early and then can relax on the meatier parts...
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#15
06-24-2009, 06:38 PM
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Hot dang, lets see this puppy built. You have as I have read thru the post found alot of the same items I too have noticed. One area I was concerned with was MG mount locations, some are shown others are not? I will follow your build and be sure to use when I take this beast on. :DRick
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#16
06-24-2009, 06:46 PM
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Good man! I learned to start by building landing gear and tail assemblies first because I usually lost interest in them otherwise by the time I got to them. I'm a big fan of doing the detail work first while studying the rest of the kit.
I've been working on a radial engine for the G50 for a while to entertain myself. Of course, part of it is that the frames don't actually fit the way they are drawn in the diagrams... In terms of stiffness for weight (I'm an engineer in case you don't know - and archaeologist too but let's keep it to a little bit at a time) steel cannot be beat. However, wire won't necessarily give you the best vertical stiffness which is what you are looking for. You could look at those extruded plastic shapes that show up in hobby shops for I beams except that they are made of nylon and really not stiff at all. A wood long former, unbroken if you could manage it, would probably solve the problems. I hope that makes sense to someone other than me! A HUGE increase in stiffness would be acquired by gluing flat parts onto a long stringer to turn in into an I beam. It turns out that the stiffness of a beam is actually determined by the material farthest from the center of the beam (web) so that the center upright part actually contibutes basically nothing to the flat extremes of the I beam. Carl
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#18
06-24-2009, 07:10 PM
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Provided you could find a good way to join them, 'I" sections are available in brass and aliminium from K&S.
(just imagining building a Warren truss with lots of 1mm wide strips of card...nah)
__________________
I'm not making it up as I go along, I'm establishing precedent
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#19
06-24-2009, 07:17 PM
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Would it be possible to make an I-beam from balsa? - easy to cut and shape. The stick and tissue aircraft modelers seem to be able to get quite stiff structures from small amounts of material.
Regards, Charlie
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#20
06-24-2009, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
The MG mounts so new as I can figure from the FSM article and various online pics don't seem to be much more than vertical posts. If I can find it in my (currently-packed up) stash, the ICM Murometz might provide some clues as I think it has a fairly detailed interior, e.g. location of spare magazines, etc. The FSM article also shows some good images of the rudder pedal assembly which is not provided in the paper model... Carl, don't worry...understand what you are saying (so long as you stick to engineering and not archeology!) and agree totally. The thickest point of the wing is only 3-4mm (will measure for precision tonight) and is also broken mid-span on the top wing by the upper gunnery position. I guess from this, the main strength will have to be in the lower but shorter wing. Simon
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