Marek Marathon: Nakajima 'Kikka' 1/33 - Page 5

**cgutzmer** · #41 06-12-2009, 10:04 AM

Looks very good! Thanks for the update

When I score I use a fiskars embosser that makes a dent (does not cut) the paper so it does not need to be colored. I have tried but dont have the skill to only cut part way through paper

Chris

**redhorse** · #42 06-12-2009, 10:58 AM

I use an excel blade that I've dulled a bit on a whetstone for scoring. For the backside of curved parts I score the front first and then go to the other side and score the back following the raised line from the first scoring. I just color anything that needs it.

Model's looking good!

**shrike** · #43 06-12-2009, 06:02 PM

Same as Chris. For everything except the sharpest of bends, I use a stylus (Excel made) with an approx. 0.2mm diameter round tip and work from the front side. It crushes the fibres enough to allow a pretty sharp bend, without weakening the part, leaving white edges, or the risk of cutting too deep and cutting through.
I don't know about his, but mine has taken a 'set' and polish through use, and I've marked one side as 'up' to get the smoothest results.

When really sharp edges are required - boxes or the like - half the time I cut each facet loose and just butt glue the edges.

**Don Boose** · #44 06-13-2009, 04:01 PM

I do the same as Jim, using the same sort of tool, except that I rarely do the second scoring from the back. The other techniques sound good.

Don

**dansls1** · #45 07-05-2009, 07:55 PM

I'm in a nice place as far as plane modelling right now, in that I can work on the Mustang if I'm in the mood for fiddly bits, or if I feel like something more substantial I can work on the Kikka. Today I was in the mood to build, not fiddle - so here's the progress. Pic one and 2 are fuselage status - it seems straight in person and in the picture, although it gives it a weird bulge to one side in the front - but I think it's a trick of the lens. Seams are not perfect, but not horrible either. 3rd pic is the last fuselage section and the stabilizer pieces. Normally I'd wait to put them on after the wings, but this plane has the advantage of having a relatively flat bottom, which will allow me to level them without wings.

**GreMir** · #46 07-05-2009, 08:09 PM

Model looks pretty good.
One of the reasons I try to use one former/connecting strip technique as much as possible is the fact that I could never get the seams to look good...

**Don Boose** · #47 07-05-2009, 08:26 PM

The seams look good. Probably better than the actual craftsmanship of the original airplane, given the period of the war in which it was built.

This will be a very nice model, Dan. I also look forward to pictures of Mustang fiddly bits.

Don

**redhorse** · #48 07-05-2009, 08:56 PM

It looks really good, very nice and straight. One of these days I'll get nerve up to try a WWII plane, but I'm so afraid of banana fuselages it keeps me building ships!

**Golden Bear** · #49 07-05-2009, 08:58 PM

Is this the same design as the Answer kit? Just curious.

Nice work on this Dan. Potential GBPOTW stuff here. Particularly if you leave a big glue blob on the side or something. Hey, I have my own criteria!

I have a sharp pointed scribe that I use for exterior scoring. I lay it down kind of flat and it doesn't break the surface. On interior scoring I just cut lightly with my blade - I don't recommend that process for beginners though. Easy to wind up gluing separate walls together but that isn't necessarily bad either, depending on what I'm building.

I wonder which plane will get done first?

Carl

**dansls1** · #50 07-05-2009, 09:02 PM

Yes, this is the same design as the Answer kit, although it seems the formers aren't quite as undersized in the digital version

I'd definitely put my money on the Kikka. Even though it suffers by having 2 jet engine assemblies to build, the fiddly bits are just so time consuming on the Halinski's

Thanks for the kind remarks