Marek Marathon: Consolidated Vultee B-24 Liberator 1:50

[shrike]

If you do, remember that Marek's kits seem to work best with thinner former material.

[member_3]

I agree with Shrike on the laminating thickness - nearly all of Marek's models work best with 0.5mm except for a few of his later ones where 1mm is specified.

[cgutzmer]

Yes indeed Beta building is part of Bruce's design process. He builds each model using the formers to make sure it works... who knows maybe he will want beta builders to speed things along if anyone is interested...
Chris

[rickstef]

Well, I am done with the fuselage formers, and started skinning

starting at the front, and working my way aft(back)

The nose "glass is kinda frustrating me, I see how it goes together.
But do I score all the frames in order to get all the wings to connect?
Or do I try to round the wings to get them to close?
Like this nose on the Strawberry Bitch


Or do I make it so that I don't have to deal with the nose


Rick

[GreMir]

Rick,
In order to make model of the second B-24, you will have to complete the entire model, THEN nosedive it into the ground :D

[rickstef]

Well here is the first section of the nose, which I finished yesterday.

One thing I have noticed is that the former is not long enough to touch the bottom of the skin.

I am not sure if it was my printing or cutting.



I will have to add the little cupola to the front, and add some weight to this section.

On to the next one

[ccoyle]

Originally Posted by rickstef

One thing I have noticed is that the former is not long enough to touch the bottom of the skin.

I am not sure if it was my printing or cutting.

Rick, this has been a common problem mentioned in other Marek threads. It seems to be neither a matter of printing nor cutting, but rather is inherent in Marek's designs.

Cheers!

[shrike]

I wonder if it has something to do with the difference in card thickness from the commercially printed Polish kits vs. the home printed stuff.
I've built a couple of his 1:50 printed kits with fairly thick soft card and not had any problems.

Rick, what did you print his on?

[dansls1]

It really seems to me that the formers for at least the 1/33 kits are designed such that one can use joining strips with them even if the kit does not call for them. I'm finding w/ the Kikka that if I cut outside the line leaving all of the black, it's just about the right size, maybe a tad small. A couple of sections where I've cut a bit smaller, I have had to match the skin to the previous section while I'm gluing the former in - a bit cumbersome but it seems to be working.

[rickstef]

I printed the former sheets on a4 size High Quality Ink Jet Paper from Epson (S041117)

and glued it to 1mm board I bought from Krys

the skins were printed on Deleter A4 premium paper 110kg.

Rick