#11
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Splendid job thus far... the petals on the nose are PERFECT - mind you, you have done quite a lot of those with the Rocketry side of model making, particularly the ET on the Shuttle Stack if my memory serves me well. Liking this a lot Yogi
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#12
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Quote:
Question about your using the Drill gauge for making very round tyres. Do you somehow use the gauge to cut the tyres out of the card stock? Or am I misunderstanding your wording? If so could you explain how and maybe a pict or 3 might help. thanks, SFX |
#13
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I'm just checking in while on vacation, and WOW!!!!! That's a great looking Spooky Yogi :D
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#14
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Cheers Jim |
#15
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Cheers Jim |
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#16
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Looks really great! Glad to see a C-47!
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#17
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Thanks all,
Swampfox, Jeff has it right. I cut out the tire sidewall disks freehand or with a circle cutter if appropriate. The drill gauge simply supplies a form for the coiled up strip of card. The coil expands to fill the hole and makes a perfectly round tread section. By using several layers of card you get a good surface to glue the sidewall to (no little tabs around the tread or edge gluing) and you get a round tire that's easier to make than the alternative of laminating several thick card disks (more circles to cut). The strip of card is just a long, thin rectangle that's rolled up to fit in the hole. I'll post more pictures shortly - including the all-purpose, portable hole (sometimes the best tools are the simplest). Yogi |
#18
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Fiddly bits and fiddlin'
So, still making parts. The motors and nacelles are simple, elegant structures. You can see the joiner strips - black heavyweight paper (not card). For slight tapers it can be crimped to a slip fit, for steeper tapers it still needs to be notched or slit. The strip joining the seam that forms each cylinder is card to endure a consistent curve.
The all purpose hole is useful for forming things like the bottom edge of the crankcase - just force the open petals into an appropriate sized hole to close them up, glue, and set aside. The hole is also useful for ensuring the nacelle is actually round when you glue on the face plate. This particular model requires a bit of fitting based on the wings' final airfoil. The regular sized one I built (C-47 from FG it is) had a flat bottomed wing (easy to keep in alignment) but this one has a round leading edge formed over a brass rod (thank you rockpaperscissors) so the fitting is quite a bit easier. The nacelles do have one problem area. There's a slit in the top, aft section to allow it to curve down to follow the wing. The corresponding bottom part (where the seam is) does not. Nor is the seam tapered so the part ends up actually curving away from the bottom surface of the wing. I did a bit of squashing on the previous build but wanted to avoid that here. So, after a lot of squinting and staring I slit the bottom aft part as well to close it down. Fit is much better - leading edge opening doesn't really need trimming. A little rubbing with a bamboo skewer opens it up nicely. Oh, tires. This may clarify the construction. You can wrap a strip of card around a mandrel/socket/etc. (thank you silveroxide) and build it up to size or slip the coiled up strip into a convenient hole and let it expand to size. Once set, you just glue the sidewalls in place. In this case, I cut the wheel in half. Inflight, the C-47/DC-3 wheels are semi-submerged in the bottom of the nacelles. Since I'm not creating wheel wells, I'll just glue them on the underside over the printed graphic. Yogi |
#19
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Butt joint seams
Series of the fuselage seams - butt joint avoids the exposed edges. Seams are still visible unless you cut just inside the lines on the parts. The parts fit on this model is very good as designed, so you'd need to think carefully about what adjustments would be needed if you cut the extra .5mm or so off when you took the line.
Cylinders/conics would be consistently smaller and shorter but the fit between tapers could suffer. Yogi |
#20
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Looking very good Yogi. I think you're going to have a great AC-47 in camo.
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Mate Amargo models. |
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