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  #11  
Old 09-16-2023, 07:23 PM
cfuruti cfuruti is offline
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The third-to-last picture here https://www.papermodelers.com/forum/260721-post10.html shows the scrap-paper-from-behind-partially-covering-edges technique. As the fourth-to-last pic shows, the tabs were removed, the white "teeth" are scrap strips.
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  #12  
Old 09-17-2023, 01:44 AM
Lord Backstab Lord Backstab is offline
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Thanks you for all the great answers
I have another question regarding the same model, what kind of paper do I get for the thicker parts? It seems difficult to get paper in specific thickness. Currently I only have 180gsm paper.
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  #13  
Old 09-17-2023, 07:31 AM
cfuruti cfuruti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Backstab View Post
what kind of paper do I get for the thicker parts? It seems difficult to get paper in specific thickness. Currently I only have 180gsm paper.
If I remember correctly, the Akira-class's saucer requires a core disk of thick cardboard. Since it'll be invisible when the parts are assembled (only a "lip" edge shows, which may be painted), just glue a few layers of cardboard, the kind used in cereal boxes.
You're certainly aware that thicker paper
  • is better for larger parts (mostly for structural strength)
  • eases flush joints
  • makes edge painting more necessary
  • can be harder or even unfeasible for smaller parts/scales
I did my 70% build with 75 gsm, but most joints are internally reinforced with scrap layers.
BTW I remembered now. Yes, I did the markings (USS Thunderchild) myself with Inkscape and wrote a tutorial (in Zealot, unfortunately).
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