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  #11  
Old 06-26-2010, 07:41 PM
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Super Dooper Murph!!!!!! I can't wait to get my grubby hands on this one. I'm a fan of your helos. :D
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  #12  
Old 06-27-2010, 11:31 AM
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Change of plans. That framework was just too flimsy, and too small. I'm gonna have to figure out how to make it stronger, and bigger.
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  #13  
Old 06-28-2010, 08:32 AM
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Looks awesome, Murph!

Good to see you back in the saddle!

Wyvern
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  #14  
Old 06-28-2010, 08:52 AM
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Strong as an Ox

Quote:
Originally Posted by murphyaa View Post
Change of plans. That framework was just too flimsy, and too small. I'm gonna have to figure out how to make it stronger, and bigger.
Murphy, may I recommend using 1) more formers and 2) more stringers. Do you have good enough photo coverage to attempt to place the former structure in prototypical locations? Seeing as the original is made of "originally" flat sheets of aluminum, your replicating that method should be successful - just remember that most of the strength will come from the "skin".... Could it be designed to be partially skinned on the top & sides and then have an 'interior floor (with integral cockpit) slid in from the rear ramp? Since it is essentially a flat floor with a step up at the cockpit (I seem to recall) and also straight sided, a "slide insert" method should work fine. With no bottom skins in the way, the floor could then be glued to the formers from underneath. Parts count goes up, of course, but multiple identical parts are a candidate for 'stack & clamp' cleanups.

Just brainstorming here (I've thought through scratchbuilding from plastic card several times by now...so I've passed it through the GM computer a couple of times.) I apologize if overstepping bounds!
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  #15  
Old 06-28-2010, 10:34 AM
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I'm with robert on this one, even though i know next to nothing on designing. His method does make sense. And could be applied to more then just this bird as there are lots of other 'square' planes and heli's.
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  #16  
Old 06-28-2010, 11:09 AM
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I'm open to any ideas. This is new territory for me. Usually I just design the outside, call it a model and run. All this internal stuff is hard:p. I do like your idea. I also was thinking of having the rear ramp bulkhead be part of the floor piece.

I'm limited by the idea of a central keel. It's needed for strength and to help form the hull bottom, but as 1 piece, it limits me to just 10 inches, which isn't a very big model, not even 1/40. I've got a few ideas I'm working on though.
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  #17  
Old 06-28-2010, 12:13 PM
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Longer pieces

could be created using more than one part using splices. If you use thickness 'notches' and a three sided splice part (you know, two parallel folds to create a 'clip' of sorts) or using laminated thickness keel pieces that overlap at the seam, so the offset seams and overlaps give you your splice - what is that called, a notch joint? In short, length really shouldn't be a limitation... heck, if a 1:48 scale XB-70 can be designed using letter size paper...

You could even make up multiple sections of the fuselage, each with separate keels, and use the bulkhead-breaks as your joints between sections. If you have the 'stringers' extend into the adjacent sections, sort of keying them together, it would stronger *and* more positively aligned.

Also, a multi-part fuselage might be easier in any case since each section would be smaller and easier to handle (particularily for a larger scale.) What would you get if the nose, 'cargo bay' and ramp extension were separate assemblies? That also gives better access for your interior parts...
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  #18  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:03 PM
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It might help if you could look at the diagram sheet of the fuselage of an H-53 Sea Stallion. Though not the same design, they are similar. You might find an idea there.
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  #19  
Old 06-29-2010, 02:10 PM
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This is what I came up with. I got the bulkheads as prototypical as I could get them, and added more stringers. I still need to carve out the interior spaces, but this should be a lot more solid.




Also, It is broken into 3 sections, at the 4th bulkhead, and the 8th bulkhead.

The way it'll work is you build each section, including interior, then butt glue them together. Then the engines will go on top.

(The big gap between the 3rd and 4th bulkheads is for the door)
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  #20  
Old 06-29-2010, 03:19 PM
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I like it Murph!!!!!
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