#11
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Lovely work Will...I'll watch this with interest
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www.byairclassique.com Art Deco paper models, prints and cards. Models from Contour Creative Studio available here...http://www.ecardmodels.com/index.php...anufacturer=26 |
#12
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Thanks Terry not sure how lovely it is cause it looks a little sloppy to me definately not as good as I would like but then again I am going a little fast trying to have something to show monday night at the RC club meeting. It's definately going to need a liberal coating of that Red Devil spackle Gil suggested.
Most of today was spent tweaking the design of the wooden frame members, then cutting out then a lot of dry fit and admiring of parts (amazing that I actually got something that works) and then a little glueing and the last pic has 2 parts (1 foam 1 wood) that are not yet glued but it is probably where it will end tonight since I am going to have to recut one of the foam pieces since I made it too big. I will probably take pictures of the process. The keel is basswood (mostly because the hobby shop didn't have the plywood in large enough size) The spine and incorporated vertical stab as well as the fuslelage formers and main spar are both 1/16" thick birch plywood. The mostly upright piece is balsa. I think the pictures otherwise speak for themselves but if you have questions I will be happy to answer and comments and suggestions are always welcome.
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Paper model designer turned aircraft designer. My models available for sale @ Gremir and Ecardmodels Last edited by Willja67; 02-01-2009 at 12:10 AM. |
#13
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Got a little more done and documented the process of cutting out a foam part.
The steps are as follows: 1. Tack the templates of the overall dimensions to the big sheet of foam then remove leaving about 1/4" of foam around the edge. 2. Begin trimming off the excess by starting in the middle of a side and working out (very difficult to start the wire at a corner without taking too long thereby letting the wire get too hot and melting foam instead of cutting it) 3. Tack on the part pattern to either end then begin removing small sections at a time until the part emerges. I ignored my own rule while cutting out the interior of the part. I cut out a small piece on one side and the corner is nice and square (see picture #5) but decided to go the rest of the way on the next cut and I botched the corner (picture #4). Not a big deal since it is not structural but it looks ugly. When cutting a tapered part it is important to move the wire around the smaller end slower than around the larger end otherwise you get the "shrink wrap" look (see last photo). I made it about 2/3 the way around the big end (sitting on table) by the time I was all the way around the small end and you can see the way it curves inward. There is some application for computer designed models here. At least Rhino does this and I bet some other programs do as well but it sometimes lofts parts the way I cut this. I've usually caught it before I ever tried building it but it might provide some head scratching if missed otherwise. And the second to last photo shows everything minus one wing rib that I have ready glued in place. The top of the fuselage between the firewall and the bulkhead that leans back will be removeable to allow access to the servos and accessories. The wide plywood parts that the cover will sit on is where I will attach the servo tray and hopefully by running it the whole length of the bay I can use it to adjust the location for an adequate center of gravity and then use a dremel to carve away excess for weight reduction. So whaddya think?
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Paper model designer turned aircraft designer. My models available for sale @ Gremir and Ecardmodels |
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