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  #231  
Old 01-03-2019, 11:27 AM
hueycobra hueycobra is offline
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Coming along. I discovered why you used thicker material for joing tabs while building the tail. Connecting bigger pieces need stroger tabs for sure. The small nose strips did fine with normal cardstock but the tail suffered during contruction because of the tabs. None the less must press on.
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  #232  
Old 01-03-2019, 07:41 PM
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papermate papermate is offline
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Good, so you've learnt the trick and will soon be a master yourself.
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  #233  
Old 01-03-2019, 07:42 PM
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BTW, your C-130 looks great and HUGE.
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  #234  
Old 01-03-2019, 09:32 PM
Bob Penikas Bob Penikas is offline
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Until reading these posts, It never occurred to use card as Joining tabs.

I just used strips of soda can aluminum.

BP
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Soda/Beer Can Models-019.jpg   Soda/Beer Can Models-santa-b-17.jpg   Soda/Beer Can Models-penikas-cokecan-staggerwing.jpg   Soda/Beer Can Models-4758.jpg  
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  #235  
Old 01-03-2019, 09:47 PM
hueycobra hueycobra is offline
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Great looking models bob. I have thought about soda can aluminum for tabs. I think it would work as a good alternative to the thick paper tabs. The paper is just flexible when it counts like for tight curves i guess

Papermate, i dont think ill be a master soon. The model is just a little over 19 inches long, or almost 50cm in thats what youre used to for measurement. Not to mention it is only 75% scale of the original model! So far I have used about 20-24 cans. I think it will need about that much to finish it. I think I will be all soda can modeled out after this one for a while...it has been a challenging subject for me to start out on.
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  #236  
Old 01-03-2019, 10:05 PM
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Gman93643 Gman93643 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Penikas View Post
Until reading these posts, It never occurred to use card as Joining tabs.
In all of my 20+ years of building, neither have I Bob. But then again, based on the way I clean/treat the cans and then shell them, I've never had to. The cans pretty much just join themselves without the need for any joining tabs...
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  #237  
Old 01-03-2019, 11:44 PM
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Not until lately that I have found Loctite 28630, Super Bonder, I have been using some Chinese liquid CA glue with paper as a median that work well for me. Reading under my magnifying glass, I found that both products are made in CHINA, Loctite under Henkel's control. I have tried the super bonder which is simply awesome and glue aluminium instantly. However, the problem comes as it bonds right away and you don't have a second chance to adjust the joining parts. So, it's a one-go thing. Perhaps Loctite gel will be more suitable but unfortunately it's not available in HK.

As regards using card (paper) as joining tabs, why don't you give it a try and treat it as something new? I use thick cards, beer packaging to be precise, to link up the fuselage sections. After soaking the CA that I used, the paper card tabs are very strong like plastic. I'll be using this technique as my own style, see my larger models, B757 and Dash 8 Flybe, in which thick cards were used as formers and tabs. No problem so far.
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  #238  
Old 01-04-2019, 12:54 PM
Bob Penikas Bob Penikas is offline
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Quick Rivets

Quick Rivets

Fiddlers Green models cut out of soda cans; non printed side.


BP
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  #239  
Old 01-04-2019, 01:47 PM
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Gman93643 Gman93643 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papermate View Post
Perhaps Loctite gel will be more suitable but unfortunately it's not available in HK.
That's too bad. Might check to see if Testors, Jet or Zap Gels are available. They are about as close as you can get to Loctite without buying the real thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by papermate View Post
As regards using card (paper) as joining tabs, why don't you give it a try and treat it as something new?
Its a personal preference papermate. I do a lot of shows, demonstrations and also get commissioned to do specialized or large builds by many different sources across the country. So for me personally, its all about the novelty of showing off the art, sort of like a magic trick, you know-nothing underneath!

For example, when I built my Life Sized R2D2 astromech for a big show a few years back, the fun was having people tap on him or look inside of him and see nothing but layer upon layer of can and nothing else. Based on people's reactions when they first got to meet him, I would surmise that their impression would have been quite different if they had seen a paper understructure beneath his all can frame and it would have taken the luster off of winning the first Best of Show award won by an aluminum can artist in active IPMS competition in my region.

Now that's not to say, I haven't used of some kind of understructure in my builds. The first time I competed back in 2008 I was commissioned to build an Antonov An-225 in 1/64th scale(4.25 ft long & 4.25 ft span) and I found that in order to get the unique shape to the Mriya's fuselage I would have to. I used cardstock as a template and created bulkhead formers from a combination of can, aluminum sheeting and Darice craft foam due to the strength requirements need to support the weight of the 3rd place winning entry as seen here below:



Since that time, whenever I get to a project that requires an understructure for added realism or more accurate detailing such as a competition, I simply scale the process down from what I used in the Mriya because I like the results. And again out of personal preference so when I happen to tap on the outer structure and announce to those who are looking over my displays that its nearly 100% aluminum, to me it just adds more novelty and wonder to the build. I am just an old fart can magician who likes the illusion of nothing underneath the can but more can and for those who come to see me, because in my opinion, they are that more amazed by the build after the 'trick', or lack thereof is revealed.
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  #240  
Old 01-04-2019, 01:58 PM
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Gman93643 Gman93643 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Penikas View Post
Quick Rivets

Fiddlers Green models cut out of soda cans; non printed side.


BP
Fiddler's were and still are the perfect jumping off point and the best for experimentation, in my humble opinion!

Did you build that in reverse, Bob?(inside out?) Because I admire you if you did since the one time I tried it, I found it to be nothing more an exercise in frustration!

Now I simply place my shelled cans in a pressure cooker for 45 minutes with about half a cup of water and then use non-acetone nail polish remove to take off the logo and paint, which is a cinch after they come out of the cooker. A little dish soap to clean off the residue and they build like a champ! They look pretty too!



You can combine the silver with other solid color can to really add a look of realism to the models...
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