#1
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Hindenburg. Stick and Tissue build.
This is just a quick photo of a 1:200 Scale Hindenburg build using Balsa sticks and tissue paper. Just like the old model plane build.
Personally, I think Balsa counts as raw paper, but that's just me. I just wanted to see if Balsa was good enough to build at this scale. Going to use sewing thread for the tension wires and see how it holds up. Right now everything is 1/16th inch balsa sticks. Don't know if I'll continue to post this as a build thread. Cheers, John Gay |
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#2
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Will be watching this thread!
I always wanted to et that old kit of the Graf Zeppelin or of the Los Angeles, in tissue and balsa, but could never find it at a price I could pay. I'll appreciate seeing your efforts with the big H! Oh! The humanity...
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"One does not plow a field by turning it over in his mind..." |
#3
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I suppose this technically counts as a scratch build.
I'm using these drawings, Airship Drawings by David Fowler and just the old fashion technique of gluing onto wax paper over the drawings. I'll probably use card stock for the passenger and crew cabins. Spent a couple of days on this first ring. And nearly 6 feet of balsa. |
#4
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Rough guess is about 60 feet of balsa for the 16 main rings.
But the sticks come in 3 foot length, so that's 20 sticks. Then there are 36 longitudinal stringers, but since it's 4 feet long at this scale, that's an additional 72 sticks. From that I should have plenty of extra for the Gondola, engine cars and passenger deck framing. Also going to build most of the details for the bow mooring area, even though most of it will be hidden inside the tissue. My local hobby shop charged me a whopping $0.46 for the first two stick. So I've got to space out my purchases so I don't break the bank (-= |
#5
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sir I for one wish you well on this build just a thought have you considered using match sticks for the cross beams as well as balsa any how all the best and keep the pics coming
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#6
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At $0.20 per 3 foot stick of balsa, I doubt matchsticks would be cheaper.
The first ring was just to see if it would hold up under it's own weight. Now that it's done, it seems strong enough to continue. Quick question about scale: This build is going to be 1:200 according to the detailed drawings I'm working from. But the 1:477 scale papermodel is a better source for the decals, since they are flat to the surface. So my question is, does printing the 1:477 scale page at 238.5% give me 1:200 scale? Or is my math off somewhere. I can never get these scale conversions right. |
#7
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I believe you maths is right. Why decals though? Wouldn't it be more fitting to stencil-spray paint any text onto the skin itself, given the intended skin thickness? I will follow this closely with great interest.
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"The world is big" On hold: Fuyuzuki, Zao, Zara, Akizuki, Past works: XP55 Ascender, CA Ibuki, Seafang F32, IS-3, Spitfire V, J-20 |
#8
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Decals because I'm hoping to get silver tissue and avoid paint all together. Just a very light doping to pull the tissue tight.
Speaking of math, I know that at 1:200 scale there is not a hope of this actually lifting. But I did some calculations at 1:100 scale, and it at least seems close. Based on the middle, I.E. largest gas cell, I should get about 24g of lift. A mylar cell at this size should be about 10g and another 10g of balsa sticks puts me near neutral buoyancy. Of course the other, smaller cells don't provide as much lift for their sections. So I'd probably need to get upto 10-12 feet before it can fly with it's own hydrogen (-= I've barely got the wife's permission for this 4 foot model. Cheers, John Gay |
#9
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Please do continue to post this build.
Don |
#10
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I'm not sure what the names of the tools are and which would be what quality, but within the stick and tissue airplane modeling world there are tools available for cutting your own strips from sheet.
FAI Model Supply, who I occasionally get rubber from for my rubber band powered balsa submarines, might be a good place to start looking and asking. Also, Cleveland Model & Supply Company, who offer a lot of vintage plan sets. I expect cutting your own strips from sheet would be more economical than buying strips. And those 2 places might have people who know where and if longer balsa lengths can be acquired. One such place I know about because someone somewhere once said and the name is easy to remember, but haven't used, is named Balsa USA.
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Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere, not detail. later, F Scott W |
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