It is Plastic model also T-34 tank

[CharlieC]

Originally Posted by cdavenport

During the Great Patriotic War, the tank factory at Kursk did not care about making a pretty tank. It was designed and built as quickly as possible to kill as many Germans as possible.

To that end, the cast turret was extremely rough with no time wasted on eliminating the casting marks. If we think the exterior is rough, you only have to spend a few minutes inside the real thing to appreciate how tough and dedicated the Russian tank crews were.

The early T-34s were built in Kharkov (KhPZ plant) and Stalingrad (STZ - up till 1942). The relocated factories at Krasnoye Sormovo, Omsk, Nizhny Tagil and Chelyabinsk (Kirov plant) produced the bulk of the T-34s.

I think it was Guderian who pointed out that Russian armour looked superficially crude and rough but if you looked carefully the parts that had to be finished or machined were usually done as well as German tanks.

Regards,

Charlie

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

Thank you all. It is the interesting project. Right now, it is just as it is but when I finish some personal things, I will fix it finally. I do see the paint I have it does not fix well to plastic or the green paint. It will draw back and not stay down, or it will dry and just flake away. The spray can paint it was very very good. I use craft spray paint often and this is much better quality. It is Tamiya Spray from Japan. It is very dear $7 for a very small can, but it spray down smoothly and it will be dry in just 10 minutes time. And it is the proper color...

Pastels, that is interesting. I have large sets of pastel pigment color powders. I use those to tint paper drawing (like my faeries). But they are all the bright color like sky blue, pink, yellow.

When I have more time I come back to things.

I did make also some work on the paper Beam Engine, so that is not forgot!

[cdavenport]

Originally Posted by CharlieC

The early T-34s were built in Kharkov (KhPZ plant) and Stalingrad (STZ - up till 1942). The relocated factories at Krasnoye Sormovo, Omsk, Nizhny Tagil and Chelyabinsk (Kirov plant) produced the bulk of the T-34s.

I think it was Guderian who pointed out that Russian armour looked superficially crude and rough but if you looked carefully the parts that had to be finished or machined were usually done as well as German tanks.

Regards,

Charlie

Kirov! Not Kursk. Thanks for that. Well, it was a Russian "K" word. At least I got the right country. For an aerophile like myself, that I even know anything at all about tankophile stuff is a miracle of education itself! LOL

[cdavenport]

Originally Posted by Keds_Girl_Lala

Thank you all. It is the interesting project. Right now, it is just as it is but when I finish some personal things, I will fix it finally. I do see the paint I have it does not fix well to plastic or the green paint. It will draw back and not stay down, or it will dry and just flake away. The spray can paint it was very very good. I use craft spray paint often and this is much better quality. It is Tamiya Spray from Japan. It is very dear $7 for a very small can, but it spray down smoothly and it will be dry in just 10 minutes time. And it is the proper color...

Pastels, that is interesting. I have large sets of pastel pigment color powders. I use those to tint paper drawing (like my faeries). But they are all the bright color like sky blue, pink, yellow.

When I have more time I come back to things.

I did make also some work on the paper Beam Engine, so that is not forgot!

Oksana, there are a bunch of plastics guys on this forum with years of experience. Before you go wasting precious dollars and materials, ask for some ideas. I am not a tankophile, but I do know paint. More importantly, I know the pastel process which can be tricky if not done correctly.

Without knowing more of what you did, plastic generally needs a primer before the color coat. Some people will tell you that you have to wash the mold release from the plastic before painting. That is a myth. I have worked with the plastic model industry for years in both Korea and the US. No one sprays mold release on the molds. That means the mold is not working properly; that means money is being wasted.

Finally, when spraying, several mist coats will grip the plastic better than one heavy coat. It's just the nature of the beast.

[dansls1]

Originally Posted by cdavenport

Without knowing more of what you did, plastic generally needs a primer before the color coat. Some people will tell you that you have to wash the mold release from the plastic before painting. That is a myth. I have worked with the plastic model industry for years in both Korea and the US. No one sprays mold release on the molds. That means the mold is not working properly; that means money is being wasted.

But - greases and oils on your hands will prevent good paint adhesion, so it's never a bad idea to wash surfaces before painting them. I managed to get some nice fingerprints sprayed into model surfaces back in my plastic building days, before I learned to wash with soap and water and not touch surfaces with my hands before painting (I used dish soap.).

[blueeyedbear]

A beautiful bit of work LaLa, even if it is plastic! I used to build contest grade 1/72 aircraft, and I will offer you (and others) a couple of tips. First WASH the plastic in warm soapy water before cutting any parts off of the sprue and give it a good rinse. It may not be coated with mold release, but you have had your finger on it and applied skin oil. Second, only use paints made to use on plastic models, either airbrush, spray can or brush (some other paints work, others don't). And NEVER use lacquers on plastic --- only enamels. You can also "dab" the paint on with the sponge-tipped make-up applicator sticks from the makeup department in WalMart. I built a plastic P-40 for a neighbor who flew "heavies" for the flying tigers and the paint job came out great that way! I haven't tried it, but I think this would work on paper. And top off the whole thing, after touch-ups and decals, with a coat of dull-coat.

Bob, the blueeyed bear

[modelperry]

Oh the painting debates, myths and mysteries:

I've never washed parts prior to a build. Never saw the point, like Major Davenport. Your going to be putting skin oil on it anyway while building it. Washing before painting makes more sense, but I never did that either.

You CAN use laquers on plastic. Testors has a line of laquers and the Tamiya paint Lala used is a laquer. Automotive laquers can be too hot but if you seal and prime the plastic properly, they can be used as well.

This same method (prime before paint) works with Krylon as well.

I personally do not like testors enamels due to the recoat window and length of drying time overall. I definitely believe in acrylics. I use Gunze, Tamiya and craft acrylics on my paper projects and Gunze and Tamiya on my plastic ones.

Also, waterborne auto paints can be used as well with amazing results!

Greg

[SJPONeill]

While I accept comments above about Korean and US moldings, I have also had kits from Eatern Europe (the ICM T-35 springs to mind) that HAVE been covered in some sort of greasy film that had to be washed off before paint would adhere to the surface. The quality of these manufacturers has gone through the roof (in a good way) over the last decade so this might be a legacy issue from earlier projects but it is still an issue to be aware of for models from some sources. It also applies to aftermarket parts from smaller cottage industry producers who may use the same mold release as my wife does to stop muffins sticking to the baking pan....

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

Hi and thank you. The issue I have with the paint is the water paint for crafts it is not for plastic. Perhaps I was not so clear. The model spray paint it apply and bond perfect. But the Plaid and Folk Art paint, it does not apply to plastic or to the Lacquer paint without it drawing back. It is hard to explain. THe paint it will pull back into droplets on the smooth surface and not flow out.

I wash the plastic parts prior as it was recommended on the instruction diagrams. Also the parts they have a thick oil like salad oil so that even the plastic bag the parts they come in, it is useless after you wash the parts because of the oil in the bag. But I have no issue with the proper paint it is fine. I spray the tank perhaps three times. I make also the model into just two large part the tower and the body/wheels/crawlers so it is more easy to finish. The doors for the crew men they are not all fix and I can open or close two of the three. I had thought the model it would have some dummies to place in side but it does not.

I have the Russia DVD movies Fall of Berlin and They Fight For The Motherland which show how the tank should look. And in colour too. So I can make some adjustment to match the movie pictures.

[modelperry]

Originally Posted by Keds_Girl_Lala

Hi and thank you. The issue I have with the paint is the water paint for crafts it is not for plastic. Perhaps I was not so clear. The model spray paint it apply and bond perfect. But the Plaid and Folk Art paint, it does not apply to plastic or to the Lacquer paint without it drawing back. It is hard to explain. THe paint it will pull back into droplets on the smooth surface and not flow out.

I agree that craft paint won't work well on top of tamiya spray. I would recommend Tamiya or Gunze-Sangyo hobby acrylics for this. I know they are more expensive but they will work without drawing back. Testor's Acryl or Vallejo acrylic paint may also work well.

Also, Tamiya has a line of "pastel" like products that work well for weathering. They are called "Tamiya weathering master". There are about 6 different sets of three colors each. Again, a bit expensive, but useful. They remind me of women's makeup compacts and come with an applicator sponge/brush tool. I've used the one pictured to add some subtle weathering on a few paper models too. Works great!

Greg