#1
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Pioneer to the Moon!
Gang,
Just finished this one today while iced-in. This is Niels Jahn Knudsen's 1/10 Pioneer 1 displayed with a Revell 1/110 Thor-Able launch vehicle I built about 20 years ago. I repainted Neils' design to match the Pioneer 1 replica owned by the National Air & Space Museum (though not currently on display.) I scratchbuilt most of the structure on the bottom. I used cut-down straws and rocket nozzles from an old 1/144 Airfix Vostok to make the posigrade rockets. The retro rocket at the top is made from a kit part, a cut-down straw and a 1/24 Gemini retro nozzle. (Hey, I'm electic! ) I used slivers of .035 plastic rod for the rivets that stand out on the spacecraft. Enjoy! Les (Friendly Airplane Asylum & ex-NASA flack) |
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#2
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Don't know or don't care if there's any card/paper in this model... that is a sweet display!
Nice work! |
#3
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Second Mike's comment - sweeeeet!
Yogi |
#4
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Yeah, it may be "multi-media," but who cares if you've done a great job of modeling? Nice-looking builds of an important subject, so thanks for sharing the photos.
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#5
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Quote:
Just started Joy Cohn's Vanguard SLV-4. Stay tooned! Les (Friendly Airplane Asylum & ex-NASA flack) |
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#6
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I like the model and I like the technique.
I brought up the issue of multimedia in another thread as sometimes my ears get red from voices on other circles. Good work Rgds Carlos |
#7
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Not to sound flip, but nozzles and nose cones are easy. Relatively easy, anyway. Two key things to have: Knitting needles in various sizes and a computer mouse pad. Just place the nozzle or nosecone piece on the pad (the piece's printed side down) and, following the arc of the piece, roll the knitting needle across the piece from one edge to the next. After you've done that a time or two, you'll have a curled piece of paper.
If you're doing a butt joint, roll the piece of paper before you glue on the joiner (trust me, I've learned this from experience) but make sure you roll the joiner separately. Then glue it to one edge of the nozzle/nose cone, then join the edges. I'll usually then set the piece on a flat surface, then put something weighted and round (such as a ball bearing) on top of the piece while it dries. This way, you'll get a round opening on both ends. Having the right knitting needles are key, and you can get them from very big to very small. And they have tapered ends, which make rolling small things (like RCS nozzles) relatively easy. Then again, you may already know all this, so I don't mean to be presumptuous.... |
#8
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Quote:
For really small cones I use regular bond paper (20lb or so) and just fold it flat. Fold the tab in along the line, a bit of glue on the tab, then fold the other edge over so it lines up with the previous fold. Pop open as soon as the glue tacks up (so you don't glue things shut) and let dry. When dry, stick an appropriately sized round thing into the cone and roll it on your palm to get it back to round. Yogi |
#9
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I have to third here. Like David and Yogi do it, I do it too. Pre-rolling on a relatively soft surface, butt ends rolling without glue strip.
It really is quite easy. Only those engine bells of that 1/400th ATV I just made are made of the points of a cocktail stick. It has to remain a fun hobby. |
#10
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Ok, sounds like what I've been missing is the "pointed" part of the rolling tool. I've tried rolling small cones using the technique you all describe, except using a blunt dowel, metal rod, whatever.
I'll give a pointed thingie a shot next time! Thanx! Les (Friendly Airplane Asylum & ex-NASA flack) |
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