Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6 (1:144)

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Originally Posted by Revell-Fan

Hehehehe!

I'm really looking forward to your next update. Have a nice Sunday, Mani!

Hello Marcell,
stay tuned, my next update is coming soon.

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Originally Posted by DiscoveryOne

My mouth has spiders building webs in it because it's been hanging open for so long. Incredible work! You set a very high bar indeed, sir. Absolutely astounding!!!

Keep cool buddy, and thanks fo your nice words.
I'm glad that you enjoy my work.

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Hello together,

in the meantime, I have also finished the second guide roller, which is why I am delighted, because these tiny parts can really hardly be handled sensibly, and one always runs the risk that they suddenly fly away - Goodbye forever!



So far, so good, but with the previous fixing rail I was still not quite satisfied, since this is still somewhat more structured than my first prototype, which is why I still want to offer an update.

When looking closely, it can be seen that the fixing rail consists of a base body on which a clamping strip with a small bollard for the tensioning cable of the Water bag sits, whose seat can be fixed by a locking screw at different height.

Most clearly one can see the structure on this picture, which is of MLP-3.


Source: NASA

On MLP-2, however, the clamping strips had been adjusted somewhat higher.


Source: NASA

These clamping strips are similar to those that are attached on the SRB Blast shields for holding the remaining Water bags.

And since we are just in details, these clamping strips were initially all screwed as one can see on this picture.


Source: capcomespace.net
Later on, they were partially welded on the blast shields and the locking screws were omitted, or not, as shown in this picture of the MLP-2.


Source: NASA
BTW, only for a basic orientation of the size, which is always interesting, these clamping strips are actually about 25 cm long.

On my inlet pipe, however, this is only 1.6 mm (1:160), and consequently the clamping strip is only 0.75 mm x 1.6 mm and made of 0.15 mm Styrene, which can be distinguished a bit from the basic body.



Then the small hole (Ø 0.3 mm) for the bollard foot was drilled and a 0.3 mm round profile like a thread was threaded through a needle eye. And in order to look more like a bollard, then I have glued at the end a thin disc from a 0.4 mm round profile. But to get this centrally was then again a true patience game and has worked only after several attempts.

After adjustment of the supernatant, the bollard was glued with MEK,



and then the rest on the underside was cut off. And finally, a thin disc (Ø 0.4 mm) was glued on as locking screw,



what can be seen somewhat better from the side.



Here one can see the comparison with the first prototype,



and in the meantime, the second fixing rail has also been completed so that the assembly can now follow.

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However, previously comes the test fitting and alignment of the two parts on the inlet pipe, but whose macro-images are relatively indistinct due to the too low contrast differences of white/white objects.





At even smaller distance the autofocus of my Digicam however is unfortunately at the end.

These details will become clearer only in the painted state, and as long as I have unfortunately to console you.
Maybe I can present even better shots.

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Hello everybody,

after the holding rail and the guide roller are now also glued and can no longer fly away, today still a few better pics have succeeded to me,



on which the details come out more clearly.





And here finally the first finished inlet pipe in the SRB chamber corner.



Well, the light conditions in such images are often crucial.

[Revell-Fan]

... I still believe this EuroCent is 10 cm in diameter in reality.

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No, no, no, Marcell, it's still only 16,2 mm, as you know.

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Hello Guys,

meanwhile, the other inlet pipe has also got its holding rail and the guide roller.





And for stimulation of the last rather dreary test fitting sceneries, I have again arranged the Rainbirds, which the picture are rounding off a bit again. But this by no means should not distract from the supply pipes and their details, although now you only see that there is something on the top, but without being able to recognize it with the naked eye.



And then I have glued the first of the four back 18'' outlets onto the ring line, which had to be back into the Balsa corset so that nothing could slip away until the glue was drying.



Now I'm curious whether the ring line with the outlet can now be carefully removed out of the shaft, which I hope, or whether this is prevented by the lower support plate under the slope of the SRB support. Because then I would have a problem and would have to come up with a cool idea.

So long and thanks for watching.

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Hello together,

somehow I was apprehensive a bit already, but now it has unfortunately become certainty. Not only the lower support plates under the slantings of the rear SRB-Supports are the hook, but the rear 18'' outlets per se, what I could have thought however with a more thorough consideration actually before.



The ring line with the outlet can still be removed by moving it somewhat to the right and then pulling it upwards,



but this does not work any more if the other outlet would be glued in the same way onto the inserted ring line.

It basically fails at the inward ends of these rear outlets with the outlet openings together with support plates, which would make the removal of the pipe skeleton impossible. But now I must digest this bitter realization first and sleep a night.
The case is complicated, but not hopeless, and I already have some ideas, though this would not work again without minor surgery, but thereto later more.

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Hello everybody,

the solution of the problem is also not so easy, because I would like to model the whole pipe skeleton with all outlets also at the transitions with Apoxie Sculpt and would like to install it completely after painting.

And that is why I will change my assembly sequence so far and first glue the four front 18" outlets between the SRB-Supports. Then I would carefully remove the two rear SRB-Supports as at the time when rebuilding the SRB chambers.

Afterwards I would glue the rear outlets with the support plates on the ring line and only finally at the end the two SRB-Supports glue again to the old place and adjust with the existing height stop.
As far as my consideration, which is hitherto only gray theory, but should work in my opinion.

Now I can show a few photos from today's assembly of the next two front 18'' outlets with the rejuvenations on 12'' which sit between the SRB Supports.











As already indicated, I now have either to remove the rear outlet with the support plate for the assembly of the two opposing outlets, or immediately the SRB support.

Wait and see.