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#131
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More on life-size Buzz upper torso
Dear all
Feeling good after managing to make Neil's torso I decided to move straight onto continuing with Buzz's torso. It had reached the stage where the lower torso had been made and I had started the upper torso. They looked like this Feeling confident, I decided to join these two arts together straight away and then build the torso up. So a bit of "cutting" removed the tabs off the upper torso and then the joining could happen. Here it is part way through I then started adding the torso parts. Of course this was a lot more relaxing knowing it could be done. Here are some various stages The last photo above made me smile. It reminded me of a film my kids liked to watch when they were small. This film is Megamind which has the line "What is the difference between a Villain and a Super Villain? Presentation!" I continued with the tops of the shoulders, forming the neck hole and the left shoulder (all of which was the same as Neil. I also added the disks for the mission patches holes. The left shoulder is now complete, including former (cut from 2 mm card as with Neil). The next thing I tried was to do Buzz's right shoulder (which is different to Neil's) and first off was to cut the former out (again from 2 mm card). Cutting the formers has been getting steadily harder and harder because my hand joints are finding it increasingly difficult to grip the knife strong enough. I am really struggling to finish this former and can cut less and less before my hand just gives up entirely being able to grip the knife. I need to have a rethink on former cutting. Regards and take care Kevin
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Normally the most advanced tech I use is a pencil. |
#132
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Question about expanding foam
Dear all
I have been thinking ahead and was looking into using expanding foam (possibly in the use of support inside the fingers of the gloves). Has anyone ever used this stuff with paper models, and if so do they have any advice? I saw that the you tube of this life size "Hulk" which looks incredibly well made and uses some expanding foam but does not say what sort. It is by a modeller called "PaperJuke". Does anyone know if they are a member of this forum? Regards and take care Kevin
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Normally the most advanced tech I use is a pencil. |
#133
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Look up EVA foam
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#134
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It's no joke. EVA foam for the EVA suit !
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#135
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Thanks for that luro1964. That foam is incredible stuff.
Regards and take care Kevin
__________________
Normally the most advanced tech I use is a pencil. |
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#136
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More on life-size Buzz torso
Dear all
So I have not had much time to spend on the model for a while but I have now managed to make some more progress. I did manage to finish cutting out the former for Buzz's right shoulder, so then continued to cut out all the parts for the shoulder I started to add the other parts, but, this was one of those times where to make sure everything lined up properly you needed a number of things in place at once. So I used large bull dog clips to hold some bits in place whilst I glued other parts in place And here is the right shoulder finished So just the neck ring to go Regards and take care Kevin
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Normally the most advanced tech I use is a pencil. |
#137
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Quote:
For cutting I use a number of tools. The main tool I use is a scalpel, and I use a No 4 "handle" with a 25A blade To change the blade a strongly suggest using a Mayo-Hager surgical needle holder (Mayo-Hager is the design style not the make) and use the "Thumb method" to change the blade. You would not believe how many people get stabbed each year whilst changing scalpel blades. Here is a you tube showing the method For cutting thicker card (1 mm +) in straight or very gentle curves I use a very old "Stanley knife". It does not have a retractable blade (you have to unscrew the casing to insert or remove the blade) but I like this since the blade is rock solid (no wobble or wiggle) so makes it much easier for me to cut accurately. Also you can put more force through the blade. For the "straight edge" I use the steel rule shown in the pictures, which has barrier tape on both sides to prevent the rule from scratching off any on the printing on the model when it rests on the parts. Now for the formers for the shoulders and neck I have been cutting for this model, the curve has been to "tight" to use the stanley knife. I have therefore been using the scalpel. However this is not so easy and does put a lot of force on some of the joints in the hands when going through 2mm card. As mentioned previously this has now become an issue for my hands. More on that in the next post. I do sometimes use scissors and depending on what I am doing I use one of 4 pairs. For basic trimming, everyday stuff I use these "Scotch" coated scissors For having to cut very precisely, including right up to the very end of the scissors, I use these "Fiskars" shears scissors For small work I use these Fiskars small scissors And for tight small curves I use these Fiskars curved scissors I store my "sharp" equipment in a knife block which is one that has a "brush" type of inside (so you just push the blade in anywhere I tend to use one of three types of glue, depending on what I an doing (mentioned in a earlier post) which I store upside down in a desk tidy. For a scorer I use a manicure tool of some sort I "borrowed" some time ago from my wife All the non-sharp "tools are stored in another type of desk tidy, which also holds things like tooth pick, big glue spreader, dowels etc Finally I use a cheap and cheerful cutting mat (nothing fancy). I think that is everything I have used so far on this model. Hope that answers your question Regards and take care Kevin
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Normally the most advanced tech I use is a pencil. |
#138
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I haven't used it as an internal component, but I have done quite a bit with expanding polyurethane spray foam.
Here are some pics of Big Thunder Mountain under construction in 2011: In the photo below, there's no sign of "bleed" from the foam onto the surrounding areas: It's fairly strong and very lightweight. But minimal expanding latex foam is another critter altogether. I used it on Splash Mountain and I've regretted it. It looks OK, but it's about as strong as a marsh mallow and it can rupture if you look at it the wrong way. If in doubt, try it on a scrap sample of the paper you're using before you try to fill the body cavity. Oh! I'd also recommend building it up in layers if you do use it or else it may just burst your seams and ooze out! |
#139
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Hi Becky
As always great to hear from you. Many thanks for taking the time to explain all your information and tips, it was really useful. Just making sure I understood, was the type of foam you used for Big Thunder Mountain, a type of squirty "Big Gap Filler" foam from a can? Regards and take care Kevin
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Normally the most advanced tech I use is a pencil. |
#140
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Life-Size neck ring of Buzz's torso
Dear all
So I have been working on finishing off the torso of Buzz which required the neck ring to be completed. This first required the accurate cutting of the former from 2 mm thick card. Up until now, to do a curved accurate cut though card like this I had only been able to manage it by using my scalpel. I hold the blade either like this or like this Either way, the pressure required to get through 2 mm card is such that my hand can no longer keep the blade in position and so it simply "slides" in this type of position which is no grip at all and is useless for trying to cut anything. I then remembered (after some time!) that I little while back I had been given a "cardboard cutter" (as it had been described to me). So I dug it out and had a look at it. It was a Wolf 3.6 V cordless cutter It came with 3 sets of "easy click" changeable blade heads (all the same) and a rechargeable battery and charger. Here is a you tube showing it in action What the video does not get across is it makes a loud buzzing-vibrating sound. So I wondered if I could use this tool to cut my neck ring former. It could manage 2 mm no problem whatsoever and a small number of practice cuts I quickly got the hang of how to control it and see exactly where the cut occurred So without further ado I had a go at cutting out the former. Just to let you know (for reference) the shearing blades hardly open and close any distance, but the speed they do it at is incredible. This does mean that (at least for me) that strange tingling vibration feeling going through the hand that is holding the card (though the card itself does not appear to move or shake). So you would not want to do hours of this at a time. Also the card does not "automatically" get drawn into the blades, you have to push it, but it can go through the card like a knife through soft butter so you need good control of the card. I actually found more control by feeding the card into the blades than moving the cutter. Here is the finished former I think it is really accurate and was certainly good enough for what I needed. Here is a close up of how close you can follow the curved line In terms of the "clean-ness" of the cut, you want your part on the left hand side of the cutting tool. It then leaves that side of the cut with an excellent clean non-dented/compressed edge. I have tried to show what the cut looks like with this close up The right hand side of the cut dents/compresses the card, as you can see from this picture of the "off cut" of the neck ring former I do not know if this always happens or only happens when you cut curves. If anyone needs to know I will test this out cutting a straight line for them. Needless to say I was very pleased with the result and then made up the neck ring (in exactly the same way as for Neil) and attached it to Buzz's torso. Here is the final result So that is all the main parts for both torsos done. The next thing to do is sufficiently strengthen them. Regards and take care Kevin
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Normally the most advanced tech I use is a pencil. Last edited by Algebraist; 05-25-2020 at 02:03 AM. Reason: spelling corrections |
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apollo, astronaut, buzz aldrin, moon, neil armstrong |
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