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Old 03-13-2014, 12:54 PM
Dancooper Dancooper is offline
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Cn2t "Las" - Modelik

Hello guys (and girls), this will be my first topic in the Railway section. This week I have received my first locomotive kit, being the Modelik Cn2t Las, narrow gauge locomotive with the lasercut frames and wheels set.
No pictures to show yet since I haven't started it yet.

But, before I start building I have question : I notice that all the detail lines of the chassis frames are also visible on the lasercut parts and I was wondering if the builder is supposed to just use the lasercut parts instead of laminating the printed sheets on them. (would make a huge difference in thickness as well, since the chassis parts are already printed on heavy paper.)


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Old 03-13-2014, 01:03 PM
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bpgeygolpher bpgeygolpher is offline
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My limited experience is that you use either the lasercut parts or the original parts supplied with the kit, not both.

I'm sure people with a lot more experience than I will chime in.

I look forward to watching your build once it is underway.
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:50 PM
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The best answer for your question is determined by the actual thickness of the laser cut parts compared to what you would laminate the printed ones on if no laser parts.

If the laser parts are over thick (like 1.2 instead of 1 mm) I would not laminate the colored parts on them. However if the laser parts measure out to the laminating thickness, I would attach the colored parts.

If the original printed parts are on bond (regular thin) paper and are used as framework pieces only, then lamination is not necessary.

Clear as mud right?

Hope this helps any way.

BTW I have found that the designer for this particular model generally does an excellent job with his designs. I trust them to fit right and build up well.


greg
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:04 PM
Dancooper Dancooper is offline
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Thanks for the info. Today I won't start yet (it's evening here and I'm up since 05.00) but tomorrow I'll give it a shot without the printed parts. I don't have my slider at hand at the moment but I have just placed the lasercut part of the left side into a slot of the side, an almost perfect fit that wouldn't allow the double lamination with the printed parts, so I think that's clear now
This will be my first locomotive, though I'm a shunting engineer myself.
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:24 AM
kriszme kriszme is offline
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Hi, some do it this some other way. It is up to you whether you will glue the LC and the original paper or not. Try the part in situ (=on the spot) and if the thickness is acceptable, glue it.
There are no strict rules at all.
I'll follow it with much interest. Good luck.
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:23 AM
Dancooper Dancooper is offline
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Thank you for the advice.
Normally I would have start the built today but I have been too busy to do so. However I have taken some measurements and a few things just don't add up.
Certain parts have only two stars on the color parts (meaning they are laminated to about 0.5 mm (or just doubled, because they are printed on thick paper of about 0
.22 mm), but those parts are on the same 1 mm LC sheet and fit the slots in the frames.
I think it will be as you say something of try and fit in the end. Problem is me, myself and I... I originated in the world of plastic kits (both styrene and vacu-form), migrated to wood and now exploring (with a couple of unfinished/failed attempts, but those tight fitting parts from the styrene scene never leave my mind...

BTW : the 1mm LC are to my measurements 0,97 mm, so I suppose glueing the printed parts is out of the question anyway, right ?
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dancooper View Post
BTW : the 1mm LC are to my measurements 0,97 mm, so I suppose glueing the printed parts is out of the question anyway, right ?
I wouldn't say that. Generally the commercial kits call out the thickness of the board to be added to the color parts. This will result in a thickness of 1.25 mm (or there abouts). If the end result is to be an exact 1 mm the notations in the kit will say so (provided you can read Polish or translate the written part of the instructions).

Do you have some photos of the questionable parts both laser and printed for better reference and response to your question? Maybe a shot of one of the build diagrams as well?

You may find some additional guidance with my build of the freudenstein designed by the same designer as your loco: B2nT Freudenstein

Regards,

greg
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:19 PM
Dancooper Dancooper is offline
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Actually Greg, if I would glue the printed parts onto the LC parts, they wouldn't fit into the slots anymore, not even the ones that have 3* in the booklet (*** stands for 1mm) while some of the parts in the booklet have only ** (0.5mm) they are still on the 1 mm LC sheet, and fit into the slots of the LC sheet where their 0.5 mm printed counterparts would fit when not using LC parts. Confusing isn't it ?
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:27 PM
Dancooper Dancooper is offline
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People may find me kind of weary to start, but that has a reason. A couple of days it was my birthday, and I was going to buy myself a nice RC helicopter for my birthday, however a couple of unexpected bills came in between, so I instead of that chopper I had to sattle with a paper model. My wife, however, whom has no income, has bought me a nice plastic kit of "Christine" (actually a 1958 Belvedere) even though she's not much into oldtimers as I am, while she really loves steam engines. So, while she spent her savings on that plastic kit, she still wants me to built this machine first... so of course I don't want to screw this up for her.

BTW : I love steam engines as well, but I don't drive them, even though I could apply for a free course, since I am a shunting engineer myself. The reason I don't apply for the free course, is that once I would get my license it wouldn't be a hobby anymore, the company would be able to put me on a service on one of those museum machines as a shift, without asking if this or that weekend would fit in my agenda.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:36 PM
kriszme kriszme is offline
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Dan, you are pondering too much. Set off and decide on the spot.
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