Maneuvering locomotive SM42 + 401ze flatcar

[Sebastian01]

Thank you for your comments!

In the meantime, I've been working on boards. I didn't have brown paint, so I had to mix it up. I took black and yellow, but it turned out green ... I have weird paints. I tried orange and black and it came out brown but a bit too red. I started adding a little bit of everything and surprisingly it turned out exactly what I wanted. In addition, I have already painted the entire platform and tried on the boards. I like the result.

[Siwi]

Try using tea to stain the paper, it can produce a nice weather faded effect. We used to do that to make 'Tudor' letters and treasure maps at school.

[Michael Mash]

It was interesting reading your experience with mixing paints to create a custom color. I do the same from time to time, and it is very difficult to get the right color.
But, I discovered as you did, that if you mix everything together it usually results in a shade of brown.

[Sebastian01]

I finished everything that was in the project. Now I'm starting to make my own additions: sides (front and rear) and cargo.

P.S. One picture came out weird, but I'm posting it anyway because I like it.

[Joon Kwon]

Great Planning, Part Prep., Assembly, Painting and Weathering.
Thanks for sharing the build !
Preserving all letterings on the loco while doing full painting and weathering is not easy task. But it is beautifully done. Hope you can spare some time to share your method.
Looking forward to the great pictures all together.
Kudos

[Sebastian01]

Thank you Maestro for the kind word! I follow your thread (Ty-2) and watch/read every new post. I stay quiet, but I admire the effects of your work!
Coming back to your question, I used decals. On the mainstay of the locomotive, they came out the worst, because I simply put them on the painted parts. On the body, I first impregnated the places of application with diluted BCG glue. Also, that green paint is a bit "slippery", that helped too. However, when applying decals to the wagon, I bought liquids (on and under the decals, you probably call them setter&softer). It was a good decision. The fluids did the job.

[Joon Kwon]

Thanks a lot for your comment.
Wondering if you can share how you prepare (or get) those decals. I think it would very helpful for modelers who are planning to go with full painting.
Enjoy the build !

[Sebastian01]

Of course I can describe how I did it. I have never tried to make a decal myself, although I know it is possible. I don't even have a printer, and as far as I know it has to be an inkjet printer. A laser printer is not good for this. Another problem to solve when creating your own decals is the lack of white ink... lots of problems Anyway, I bought my decals. Here: 401Zb /401Ze -kalkomania •. It says they are currently unavailable, but it's just a matter of time and they will be back. The cost is not small, PLN 32, while the project with the model costs PLN 65 ($ 1 = PLN 4.33). However, if you do a full painting, I can't imagine keeping all these inscriptions. Maybe if I use a laser cutter to make the stencils like you do, maybe I could do it without decals, but I don't have a laser cutter. So decals. I'm no expert, but I'll describe what I found out and how I did it. The first thing is the surface on which the decal will be placed. Everyone keeps saying it can't be rough. It should be shiny. This is a problem in itself if we are talking about a cardboard model. The idea behind the decals was to use them for plastic models. Unfortunately, cardboard is not plastic. Cardboard is not glossy, smooth, but it is absorbent, which is not good for decals. In this situation, the surface must be impregnated. I used diluted BCG glue (50/50 with water). I am not sure if you will know what I mean by BCG glue. Well, it is this office / school liquid glue, transparent. With this solution, you use a brush to paint the place on which you will later put the decal. If you use matte paint (I use it), try to paint the smallest surface with BCG solution, but enough for decals. The spot painted with BCG solution will no longer be matte. When the solution soaks in/dries, you can start applying the decals. But why must the surface be smooth or (in the case of cardboard) impregnated? Because if it is not, there will be air between the surface and the decal. Whatever you do, you will never get rid of this effect. It will look silver under the decal foil. That is why, to avoid this, we impregnate the surface.
We cut out a specific decal from the sheet. It is important to cut as close to the letters or graphics as possible. We don't want too much of this foil that's around. Now let's talk about decal liquids. There are many manufacturers. Not every manufacturer's liquid will be suitable for the decal of the specific decal you have. Of course, there are no rules or principles here. You have to experiment I bought liquids from the Polish manufacturer Wamod. Fortunately, they worked properly and did not destroy the decals. There are many manufacturers: Tamiya - several types, Vallejo, Revel, Humbrol, and many others. Some are single and some are a combination of two fluids. My Wamod fluids are two pieces. One is applied under the decals and the other is applied over the decals. What is the difference in their operation is best shown by inserting descriptions from the labels of Microscale liquids (highly recommended by many people on the forums). The first fluid, blue, is MICRO SET and is called setter, and the label reads: SOFTENS DECALS AND IMPROVES ADHESION. It also allows you to finally determine (set) the location of the decal, right after placing it on the surface. How is it used? You paint the surface with this liquid, place the decal (previously soaked in water and removed from the paper), paint with this liquid on the decal and correct its position. You wait for it to dry a bit and use the second liquid, red, MICRO SOL, called softer. The inscription on the label says: SOFTENS DECALS TO CONFORM TO IRREGULAR SURFACES FOR A "PAINTED ON" LOOK. And it does exactly what it says. It can soften the decal so much that it will penetrate into the surface irregularities. The second fluid is more aggressive and... smelly, be careful (I'm talking about the fluid I used, Wamod). At the end, I painted everything with acrylic, matte clearcoat spray, which helped to eliminate the shine of the BSG glue and the decals themselves. That's all. I hope the description is clear and sufficient. Sorry for my english but it's not my strongest point

Here are decals for your model: Ty2 1/25 - kalkomania •. Unfortunately also temporarily unavailable. The cost is PLN 25, about $ 6)

Regards
Sebastian

[Millimodels]

Is it possible to varnish over a paper gummed label (gummed side), print on that then varnish over again. I have done it with paints to create decals.

Robin

[Sebastian01]

Very interesting. I read a lot about the DIY method of making decals, but when I came across a problem with the white color, I gave up. There are printers with a CMYW color system, but I don't have access to one. However, I am still interested in this topic. Maybe someday I'll find a method that won't exceed my skills and available technical possibilities