U-Boat Type VIIc by Kooklik/Thai Paperworks

[Padre]

Thanks for this build thread and your experience. When I start my build I am going to benefit and use your advice and problem solving as a guide. Thanks and you are doing a great job.

[member_3]

The saddle tank waterline problem is on parts Q-7R,L and Q-8R,L. The waterline on those parts is about 3mm lower than on the parts fore and aft of them.

Parts Page R - pieces R-6R is really R-6L and R-6L is really R-6R.

Kooklik has been informed.

[kooklik]

That's a big mistake. Thank you for post the pic. I'll revise it soon.
BR.
----kooklik----

[kooklik]

Originally Posted by OldTroll

The saddle tank waterline problem is on parts Q-7R,L and Q-8R,L. The waterline on those parts is about 3mm lower than on the parts fore and aft of them.

Parts Page R - pieces R-6R is really R-6L and R-6L is really R-6R.

Kooklik has been informed.

------------------------------------------------
Dear Ron
Part Q-7R,L and Q8-R,L those their water line is lower than others. Please re-color only these 4 pieces. Other parts are OK.
And I swapped part R-6R,L already. It was missing in mirroring :p.
I'll correct and post the patch.
Thank you
---- kooklik ----

[member_3]

Using a preview of the next revision provided by Kooklik, I patched the waterline area on the left saddle tank. The color does not match because it was printed on different paper than the original Page Q. (I prefer to look at it as an area that had been damaged and repaired in the shipyard.) The right side parts should all match up and we'll be off for new adventures in building in the next day or so.

[member_3]

OK - energized and back in a building frame of mind! Here's the starboard saddle tank in place on the hull with the joining strips glued on. Just a note - joining strip H-8aR,L is longer than it has to be and H-9aR,L was a bit short. I trimmed the excess off H-8a.)

The five arrows at the top indicate how the saddle tank skins actually slip through the free-flood slots at the upper hull/saddle tank joint and curve downward to meet the sub-deck. There are a number of false frames that attach to the hull sides, center frame, tank skin and sub-deck (pieces L-4R,L through L-13R,L) that will give the final shaping to the tank skins. Because of this, I did not glue the tank skins to the sub-deck at this point.



Added with edit - Just remembered what I intended to point out - The hull joining strips must be trimmed away where each hull frame shows through the slots so the tank skins will fit through the slot. The exposed frame edges will have to be colored like the edges of the false frames mentioned above.

[Johnny]

Thats a big project Ron!!
You are doing some really good work on that monster
Very nice to follow this build!

[member_3]

While I have not posted in a while I have done a little bit more. My present hangup are the tubes for the shafts - I am extremely tube-rolling challenged despite Carl's excellent tutorial (I flunked out twice). Here's a shot of the last hull section nearing completion. I thought I had a couple more shots but I must have dreamed them...

[shrike]

I tend to cheat and print any important tubes on bond paper. You can extend the rolling length if you need to for structural strength. It makes life ever so much easier.

Of course if it were an old Mały kit you could just peel the paper<G>

[birder]

That looks good! I agree with Shrike, thinner paper is so much easier. Nice work Ron!