Half Model of Steam Tug "Hercules" - Page 3

**MrMidwayMan** · #21 05-31-2011, 03:29 PM

Did you make the model out of drawing sof the ship? I've never heard of that theory. Maybe I'll try sometyhing like that...Impressive...

**Bluenoser** · #22 05-31-2011, 04:14 PM

Yes. I just print out the model to whatever size pleases me and then make lots of copies as these will become your templates to build from.

**consistseeker** · #23 05-31-2011, 04:18 PM

I think fiddlers green had an article about building models without cad that followed along the same lines

Zathros · #24 05-31-2011, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluenoser

Zathros: Thank you for the 'Hull Expansion Plates' clarification. I did not know that and it definitely explains the outcome of the hull build.

String really works out well for getting the lengths of the planks, if you wish to do it old school. I think your model is awesome.

I was at Mystic Seaport helping a guy make a "Clinker Built" boat tender. Probably only 14 feet long or so. He would use planks that were around 4 feet longer at each end, and then attach them to the stern, working them up to the bow. The extra length allowed the bend to take shape and produced a fair hull. I showed him a trick on the bucking iron that made the copper nails curve back into the wood easier. I just happened to be visiting the museum that day and ended up spending around 8 hrs working on this boat with a master shipwright. I felt honored and privileged that he would suffer a novice like me.

Of course, after that, I started reading about Phil Bolger boats and began a new appreciation for stitch and glue boats.

**Bluenoser** · #25 05-31-2011, 08:04 PM

When you did the clinker built boat, did you apply some type of sealant at the contact point between the two planks or seal it up afterward, and what would you use to seal it?

**Bluenoser** · #26 06-21-2011, 07:53 AM

Finally got around to putting some paint on this.

**B-Manic** · #27 06-21-2011, 08:19 AM

She's a little beauty Ron, you must be very proud of how well it turned out.

**Bluenoser** · #28 06-21-2011, 09:11 AM

Well, it did turn out better than I had anticipated.
I want to remove the drawn image of the ship on the drawing and mount the model in its place. It kinda brings the "drawing to life" this way.

**B-Manic** · #29 06-21-2011, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluenoser

Well, it did turn out better than I had anticipated.
I want to remove the drawn image of the ship on the drawing and mount the model in its place. It kinda brings the "drawing to life" this way.

Great idea, that would look great in a nice shadow box.

Zathros · #30 06-21-2011, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluenoser

When you did the clinker built boat, did you apply some type of sealant at the contact point between the two planks or seal it up afterward, and what would you use to seal it?

Sorry I was so late on this, I believe we used Oakum, or some kind of loose stranded rope, but I am pretty sure it was Oakum, it looked and felt just like it.. . I didn't ask

. A very little is used as the seams are extremely tight. There was a type of tar that was also used but this was a long long time ago, 20 years at least. Oakum makes for an incredible sealer, and it just loves water!! Most of these types of ships used cloth as a sealant, usually dipped in pitch or something equivalent. People go for the Silicone type sealants these days, but if I built a clinker built boat, I'd probably stick with an organic type sealant. This stuff worked for 100's of years and if you need to seal up a seam, a fine blunt chisel, wooden Babbitt and just start shoving and hammering the stuff up into the seam. These boats are great if freshly cut timber is used because when the wood swells, it seals, and if the wood is cut and fit right, it will seal itself. It was normal in the old days to ship a little water.