USS Cairo Test Build - Page 3

**jimkrauzlis** · #21 05-30-2012, 07:14 AM

Wow, this is really coming out great!

Just one question, on fitting the paddle wheel in the underside tunnel, would it be a good idea to have the paddle wheel area blackened, so as to give the impression the wheel continues beyond into that void but out of sight? Just wondering how that actually looked on the ship from underneath, was that well area open only for the paddle wheel or did it extend further aft? Hope my question is clear enough to express what I am asking....

Excellent job!

Cheers!
Jim

**ct ertz** · #22 05-30-2012, 07:22 AM

If I understand my drawings correctly, you have the wheel house that covers the wheel, and you have two sections of the hull continuing back beyond the wheel house. The space in between was planked over to provide for the rear guns. So looking from below, your idea od making a darked "hole" for the wheel to disappear into would be a good idea. If I understand my drawings.

CT

**fishBait** · #23 05-30-2012, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimkrauzlis

Wow, this is really coming out great!

Just one question, on fitting the paddle wheel in the underside tunnel, would it be a good idea to have the paddle wheel area blackened, so as to give the impression the wheel continues beyond into that void but out of sight? Just wondering how that actually looked on the ship from underneath, was that well area open only for the paddle wheel or did it extend further aft? Hope my question is clear enough to express what I am asking....

Excellent job!

Cheers!
Jim

Quote:

Originally Posted by ct ertz

If I understand my drawings correctly, you have the wheel house that covers the wheel, and you have two sections of the hull continuing back beyond the wheel house. The space in between was planked over to provide for the rear guns. So looking from below, your idea od making a darked "hole" for the wheel to disappear into would be a good idea. If I understand my drawings.

CT

You are both right. Look at the plan for the gun deck framing. the wheel well is closed with boards parallel to the beam. Continuing on to the Hurricand deck, we don't see any closing boards, but the lateral section clearly shows boards continuing through the hurricane deck and on out exposed as the wheel covers.The wheel cover is boarding running fore and aft on the sides and accross the beam on the rounded part. The wheel cover covers the entire wheel except for the opening in the bottom. On the external aft of the wheel cover, the ends of the boards are blocked out and form steps on either side of the cover.

Blacking out in black is a good idea, I will modify my parts sheet.

fishBait

**ct ertz** · #24 05-30-2012, 08:12 AM

Great drawings! Looking on with anticipation! I have been inspired to continue on with my two ship models the CSS Selma and the USS Vindicator. Maybe one day I will actually launch a ship model again! You look like your doing well, and with speed too.

CT

**fishBait** · #25 05-30-2012, 06:18 PM

23) If the optional add on gun port covers are desired, cut them out and glue them on over the preprinted locations. Now we will also insall the forward gunnels. This is a fairly difficult procedure. Pick one side of the Cairo and cut out the forward gunnel for that side. Test fit and make sure that the angle between the casement and gunnel is correct; if not adjust and test fit again until you have a good fit. TRIMMING IS A NECESSITY! Glue the gunnel on with a butt joint to the bow armor and a short run on the main deck.

24) Now glue the gunnel on around to the apex of the bow. The gunnel should transition from the angle at the bow armor to perpendicular or near perpendicular to the main deck at the bow apex. Let dry throughly before attempting the other side. Repeat on the other side of the Cairo and join the two gunnels at the bow. Again, allow to dry throughly. At this point, we have another decision to make. The inside of the gunnels are glaringing white.

25} If desired, install the three piece interior gunnel wall. Cut out both interior side gunnel walls. Again, trim to fit your Cairo at the joint with the bow armor. Allow to dry until stable! Cut out the third interior gunnel wall piece, the apex. Fold in the center and crease, printed side in. Apply glue and use a toothpick to press the crease into the bow gunnel apex (red arrow). Then make sure that each side attaches to the interior gunnel wall while making sure that the apex is secure.

26} The USS Cairo forward deck is now complete.

Stay tuned to this station. Next, we will give the same treatment to the stern area.

**fishBait** · #26 05-31-2012, 09:44 PM

27) The gun doors and rudder cable rollers (same as deck cleats on the bow deck) have been installed on the aft deck. We will use a different technique to install the gunnels. The side gunnels only go around to the end of the main deck splashboard (red arrow). Test fit and trim the gunnels as before. Position the gunnel (one side at a time) and glue to the main deck/hull all the way around, but do not glue the angle to casement butt joint (blue arrow). As soon as these are stable, glue the third piece around the stern. Allow to dry thoroughly.

28) Gently transition the gunnel upsweeps to fair into the stern armor (red arrow) and glue. Allow to dry thoroughly. Again, the interior wall of the gunnel is glaringly white.

29) Cut out the interior gunnel wall. It should fit from just inside the armor-gunnel joint all the way around to the opposing armor-gunnel joint. Test fit and trim. Glue the interior gunnel wall into place. This new technique is vastly superior and will be used in the future to install the bow gunnels.

30} With the exception of rudders and control cables, the USS Cairo's aft main deck is now complete.

For the next post, we move up to the hurricane deck and start installing the USS Cairo's most recognized identifying features.

fishBait

**sporticus** · #27 06-01-2012, 04:31 AM

starting to come together :-)

**Phrog Phlyer** · #28 06-01-2012, 07:50 AM

Great build! Really well done. I think another way to identify the different vessels was the iron grillwork between the stacks. IIRC, each ship had its own design. Might be a good item to ad to your plan and parts list. I also heard that one of the torpedo rakes was still in an inlet in the Bahamas. Seems that when the war ended, it was just towed out to sea and cut loose, or maybe it just got lost from some store yard.

**ct ertz** · #29 06-01-2012, 08:10 AM

Wow. I either need to pick up my game or quit making boat models. Some of our new designers are sure showing me up! I will see how my Selma comes out and if I can still stand with these new comers!

Your model is great and I would indeed like to add it to my collection as soon as you make it available!
CT

**fishBait** · #30 06-01-2012, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phrog Phlyer

Great build! Really well done. I think another way to identify the different vessels was the iron grillwork between the stacks. IIRC, each ship had its own design. Might be a good item to ad to your plan and parts list. I also heard that one of the torpedo rakes was still in an inlet in the Bahamas. Seems that when the war ended, it was just towed out to sea and cut loose, or maybe it just got lost from some store yard.

I agree, the work between the stacks is already set up and ready for the parts pages. In addition, I have the list of all the color codes for identification. Thanks for your input and your kind words.

fishBait