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  #21  
Old 07-24-2009, 08:59 PM
Maltedfalcon Maltedfalcon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keds_Girl_Lala View Post
Or there is a CD offered here with the cards. I assume they are the legal version.
building
The reality is they are not legal. The copyrights on Micromodels don't start expiring until 2027 and the last wont expire until 2060ish. The people who sell scans either by download or on CD have been asked to stop by the copyright owner but choose not to. So, I choose not to buy the scans.

Micromodel History
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  #22  
Old 07-25-2009, 07:57 AM
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Keds_Girl_Lala Keds_Girl_Lala is offline
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Oh that is too bad. I am sorry for mentioning this. But they "seem" legal and it was my mistake. They have sell these for some time and are members of modelleing web rings, etc. So I had assume that since no one kick them out of the ring, etc. they were legit.

So does some one offer legal copies of the original model? Are the German Micromodels legal?

I would remove the link I mention but I can not edit any more.
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  #23  
Old 07-25-2009, 08:11 AM
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lehcyfer lehcyfer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keds_Girl_Lala View Post
I get some impact glue on the hull side
The yellowish tint on the hull? What glue do you use? To such details I love BCG (Brand Clear Glue) - it's transparent and in small amounts does not leave a trace when dry.
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  #24  
Old 07-25-2009, 08:18 AM
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Keds_Girl_Lala Keds_Girl_Lala is offline
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I use DAP Impact/Contact Cement. It is orange color. I use that only on a few things because it is messy. But it is the only glue for some kinds of joints. It is virtually instant but at the same time it is flexible to some degree. I do not think BCG is sold in the USA. I use mostly Devcon Weldit for the rest of the model, or Zap-A-Gap.
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  #25  
Old 07-25-2009, 11:15 AM
Maltedfalcon Maltedfalcon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keds_Girl_Lala View Post
Oh that is too bad. I am sorry for mentioning this. But they "seem" legal and it was my mistake. They have sell these for some time and are members of modelleing web rings, etc. So I had assume that since no one kick them out of the ring, etc. they were legit.

So does some one offer legal copies of the original model? Are the German Micromodels legal?

I would remove the link I mention but I can not edit any more.
The German Micromodels that are new are legal but are not "official" Micromodels , but on the same site he is selling reprints - those are not legal.
If you look at the site he mentions specific copyright rules that "allow" him to reprint the models. But specifically the rules state he can include some artwork in an educational study that includes other artists. he is extrapolating this into, since he has a museum anything he prints for "educational" purposes is legal.
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  #26  
Old 07-25-2009, 12:31 PM
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lehcyfer lehcyfer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keds_Girl_Lala View Post
I do not think BCG is sold in the USA.
In USA, the equivalent of BCG is called O'Glue.

As wrote a Polish modeller living in NY:
Quote:
"An attribute of this glue that I like very much is the ability to shrink. One can say that layer of glue after drying has thickness zero. Because of that even smallest parts glued with the glue look very clean. The connection is very strong - when trying to pry parts apart it's the paper that breaks, not the connection. O'Glue similarly to BCG forgives all mistakes in imprecise applying of glue. After drying it 'magically' disappears. If the amount of the leftover glue is so large that after drying it is a little visible in a form of - slightly shining, totally transparent and not changing the color of the part - spot, then final varnishing of the model completly liquidates that effect.

I use it mostly in two stages - first I apply glue to both glued surfaces, then after it dried i apply it again, in very small amount to one of the surfaces and connect the parts. This way the parts are glued almost instantly.

O'Glue is better than BCG in one more aspect - if a part is badly glued, you can put it into a container with water and after few hours the part will unglue itself - take it out, dry and you can glue it again.

Similarly to BCG, the only weak point of O'Glue is that it can glue only when it can be absorbed by the paper. Thus it is useless if the paper is varnished or otherwise coated"
On my part I can only add that I use BCG to almost everything, and the first thing I do with a model is to impregnate the paper with BCG. This makes the paper - and the printout on it - very resistant to tearing, meshing etc., you can wash away stains, paint doesn't penetrate paper so there is no soaking through.

Another thing that I use gluing is a small turistic hairdryer. I simply can't imagine now modelling without this tool - it cuts modelling time not in half but in at least four - you no longer wait for hours for the glue to dry - you dry it in seconds and glue the next part to a perfectly dry assembly, not having to fear that something glued earlier will unglue itself. Look here to see how much I did in two days.

BCG is extremely cheap - I don't suppose that O'Glue is expensive.

Try it out
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  #27  
Old 07-25-2009, 01:03 PM
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Keds_Girl_Lala Keds_Girl_Lala is offline
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I will have to look for O'Glue. It sound useful for me.

Weldit, that will dry in 5 mins. DAP Impact Cement is basically instant and Zap A Gap it is instant. I used also Uhu Kleber but I can not find it local. Just the Uhu Twist & Glue.
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  #28  
Old 07-26-2009, 06:53 AM
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Keds_Girl_Lala Keds_Girl_Lala is offline
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Well I finish the sub yesterday. I make some extra details based on observation and consideration of the model parts.

I have fix the diving fins open with little braces below. On the model it says to use pins there but then just to have the fins closed, which you would not need pins for? I make the gun deck level with the main deck also and have added two braces per each side to match with small dots print on the side of the hull. On the real boat this might fold up and down? And I make all the periscopes and masts from long pins.

I have yet to finish the base. It is half way finish.

It is very difficult to make this model's detailing. I try to look at pictures of the real Sealion or the S Class Submarine, but the model only barely resembles the real sub. It is too short, the tower too tall and not shape anything like the real boat, etc. So you can only really guess. I think the many masts would fold up and down. One thing I read says they are for the stringing of an antena for when the boat is on the surface.
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  #29  
Old 07-27-2009, 05:42 PM
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Keds_Girl_Lala Keds_Girl_Lala is offline
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I make the base from thick black card and blue construction paper. The two are fixed together with Uhu Twist & Glue very carefully! Then i coat with Aleene's Paper Glaze which i apply from the bottle and smooth with my finger. It will level itself.



Then I plan where the Sealion will fit and paint in some waves and wake with Paper Glaze mix with acrylic paint. I use mostly 0ff-White and then some Pure White for the high lights. I use also some very dark, intense, transparent blue paint for some shadow.

When the paint is dry, I apply more paper glaze and stick the sub in place.

Now the model it is finish! Again...










I have some painted details like the replacement for the back box on the tower, which is not drawn correctly, and the wood braces for the cannon deck.




And now on search with the HMS Ark Royal... Obviously they are not in proportion!

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  #30  
Old 07-27-2009, 06:37 PM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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You have done a beautiful job with these ships, Oksana!

Don
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