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  #151  
Old 01-02-2022, 01:06 PM
drg drg is offline
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Originally Posted by Tapcho View Post
Herculean effort by you with the hull. And you keep such high standard with it too. With model that long it must be extra difficult to forsee all implications of your actions along the whole lenght of the structure. I know I have problems to follow both stren and bow simultaneously and my hull is only 30 cm long. :D
When you get to superstructure you get to model clear individual subassemblies and it gets more pleasant, right? Never the less superb work so far.

Tappi
Thanks Tappi - yes, spot-on, once the hull sides are fitted I think the superstructure will be much more straightforward and I can hopefully make some rapid progress.
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  #152  
Old 01-06-2022, 03:57 PM
drg drg is offline
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I made some small fillets for the ends of the belts:



The kit parts are rectangular, but I thought these would fit better.

One place I opted to deviate from the 100% paper build was the packing strips for the hull armour. In the kit these are multiple strips of paper lapped and laminated together. I think this may have formed steps and wrinkles, so I thought thin balsa would be better. I began by templating them against the hull with paper:



Then transferring to the wood:



In order to secure the packing piece to the hull, I made a temporary balsa base, and used a thin balsa strip, pinned against the paper sides (with the balsa packing behind) to get a smooth curve, and to give even pressure for bonding:





I used UHU for this. I also fitted the stern piece:



The next job is to finally fit the long paper armour outer skins to the balsa, again using the pinned strip method to get a smooth result.
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  #153  
Old 01-09-2022, 08:37 AM
drg drg is offline
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So with the armour balsa set to the paper lower hull, made a start on finally attaching the sides. Front section first:



Then pinned in place with a profile strip:



Then the rear section. I left it long so I could mark it to get a perfect fit to the front:





Then glued that in place onto the balsa:



And pinned the whole length while it sets to get a continuous smooth curve:



When that’s set, I’ll work on the return at the top of the armour, move the strip up and wick PVA all along it, hopefully to form a smooth, rigid, gap free finish.
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  #154  
Old 01-09-2022, 10:09 AM
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Tapcho Tapcho is offline
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Fine technique with balsa and pins, thanks. One question about the glue: the Uhu universal doesn't dry too fast right? All the glues I currently use dry too fast for me to be able to work with long sections all at once, I have glue everything section by section and that can cause problems too. Or is that rig you made to secure the curing time?

Tappi
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  #155  
Old 01-09-2022, 11:38 AM
drg drg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapcho View Post
Fine technique with balsa and pins, thanks. One question about the glue: the Uhu universal doesn't dry too fast right? All the glues I currently use dry too fast for me to be able to work with long sections all at once, I have glue everything section by section and that can cause problems too. Or is that rig you made to secure the curing time?

Tappi

Yes, I found UHU is good for large pieces like this. It tacks quickly, but in the event of a placement disaster, you can still peel things apart without damage after a couple of minutes.



I made the rig to hold the parts in place while the UHU sets (overnight).


The other good thing about UHU is that it doesn't cause wrinkling of large flat areas - like the disaster on the decks I had (while using water based PVA).


UHU is useless for smaller parts becasue it's too thick and stringy.


Cheers.
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  #156  
Old 01-09-2022, 07:15 PM
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Michael Mash Michael Mash is offline
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High quality workmanship.
Comparable to your previous projects, except a lot bigger.
Mike
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  #157  
Old 01-11-2022, 01:56 AM
drg drg is offline
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Originally Posted by Michael Mash View Post
High quality workmanship.
Comparable to your previous projects, except a lot bigger.
Mike
Thanks Michael. Now for the other side. Hopefully quicker this time!
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  #158  
Old 01-15-2022, 08:37 AM
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On to the port side. I’ve had to re-position the cranked section at the stern. Luckily I’ve got a spare hull piece, so made a good one from two:





Also joined the multiple hull armour sides:



And scored the returns. Also visible is one of the datums, which is a piece of tape with a line drawn on it. There’s another on the deck. Trying to adjust fit by trial end error without them is a frustrating exercise…and even with them, there are inevitably some small errors.



I then needed to think about bracing the almost complete stbd. side, to clamp the balsa and hull sides against, but without damage. I opted to pin a balsa strip to the waterline profile:



Then I could spin the board around and glue and clamp the balsa packing along the belt:




Followed by dry-fitting the sides as a check, and to hopefully give them a bit of a set overnight ready for the next stages. These are the tapered infill pieces at each end of the armour return, and then finally fitting the hull sides:



Now back on it’s temporary shelf:

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  #159  
Old 01-16-2022, 10:40 AM
drg drg is offline
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Continued with preparation for finally glueing the port sides on. Started by cutting and attaching the armour end returns, and backing-up with paper:





Put to one side to dry:



Also random things like blocking the balsa in black, behind where the armour joint will be:



Looks a mess, but will be covered up. Simple things like this, planned in advance, will massively reduce the visual effect of any slight mis-match between the final joint (which can’t be done with any accuracy before attaching the two ends).
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  #160  
Old 01-17-2022, 04:40 PM
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First stage of port bow glueing - PVA along the top, UHU along the mid-height stiffener tabs:



Tomorrow I’ll do the waterline edge in PVA, and glue the armour belt to the balsa with UHU, then clamp with a profile strip over night.
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