GPM HMS Lion

**Earl Greybeard** · #1 02-24-2022, 03:31 PM

Hi. I have a acquired the GPM 1:200 scale Lion, Beatty's flagship at Jutland.

Has anyone had a go at this please? In particular, I wanted to make it up as a waterline model rather than full hull. Is this where angels fear to tread

If I get beyond opening the box, I will post my efforts here.

Best wishes,

Raymond

**Burning Beard** · #2 02-24-2022, 04:32 PM

I suggest if this is not a download model, scan all the parts so they can be reprinted in case of error. A first build can be rather difficult, heck any build will throw you a clinker ever once in a while.

**Dazliare** · #3 02-24-2022, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burning Beard

I suggest if this is not a download model, scan all the parts so they can be reprinted in case of error. A first build can be rather difficult, heck any build will throw you a clinker ever once in a while.

This is great advice. Do you have a scanner you like? Or do you do this at your local office shop

**roncar** · #4 02-25-2022, 12:46 AM

Hi Raymond, I built this model a few years back, scanning the GPM kit at home and reprinting it in 1/250 scale. The fit was good and there were no issues with the build that I recall. The only thing I noticed (after I had built it) is that the tripod mast supports and director tower were not added to the Lion until some time after Jutland, so the kit represents the ship as it was later, around 1917. There are some historic photographs on the internet that would guide you in simplifying the foremast in the GPM kit to the 1916 version if you felt strongly about it.

**roncar** · #5 02-25-2022, 01:26 AM

Something i had forgotten - delete those torpedo nets, shelves and booms from the GPM model. They although fitted when launched, they had been removed from British ships a few years later and so they are not appropriate either for Jutland 1916 or especially that later trip[od mast! That will simplify the build a little.

**Earl Greybeard** · #6 02-25-2022, 04:28 AM

Thanks Guys. That's all helpful advice.

At £36.00, it may be best for me to just buy a second copy of the original kit, rather than try to re-print. I just don't have the gear or the expertise for anything fancy.

**PAPER FAN** · #7 02-25-2022, 05:39 AM

I find color matching to be the biggest issue with scan and print. Do you plan to paint the ship? No unique cammo so easy to do.

**Earl Greybeard** · #8 02-25-2022, 11:36 AM

I would prefer to paint. I have a airbrush, washes and the usual paraphernalia. But until now I didn't know whether I could. It looks pre-coloured in the pictures.

**PAPER FAN** · #9 02-25-2022, 09:46 PM

I'd suggest old school brush using classic model master enamel. Real world ships were painted with massive brushes slobbed on by unskilled sailers.

Paper models bring out seams and hand painting actually adds to realism in my opinion.

**roncar** · #10 02-26-2022, 03:13 AM

Colour matching from scans can be a problem. On the other hand, if you can tolerate the seams (after all it is a card model) a few slightly different shades of grey adds life to the model. If painted by the crew while in service, the ship is going to have some slightly different patches anyway, and the computer printer produces grey by blending tiny dots of green, blue and magenta. It produces a lively grey that cannot be matched by a flat paint job.
Matching the red panels on the underwater hull can be problematic - again, however, I've had a representative from a model ship club reassure me with advice that painting in dry dock is done in sections, with various areas of overlap, and that the anti-fouling paint weathers and fades unevenly. His members have difficulty reproducing these effects with their spray paints. He thought the card results looked pretty realistic.
(Check out my Dunkerque thread for an example of a hull in home-scanned and printed natural card colours .)