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  #11  
Old 06-06-2022, 06:13 AM
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roncar roncar is offline
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I find that felt pens have a limited range of colours and tend to leach into the card - although there is a range of grey spirit-based pens that are handy for small parts where leaching into all the corners can be an advantage.
However, for best results I use water colour paints, which can be mixed to almost the exact shade.
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  #12  
Old 06-06-2022, 04:46 PM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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The biggest problems I've had so far:

1. The cardboard I used is slightly thicker when laminated than the slots on the laser cut material meaning the decks were a tight fit and had to be fitted or the slots ground down a bit and glued once in place.

2. The spray adhesive overspray gets on your hands and roller and transfers to the top of the model as smudges. Sometimes you can scratch/rub it off gently and sometimes I use a little isopropanol on a q-tip, however this bleaches the decks slightly. I've reined it in well enough but I'm thinking a glue stick might be better for reinforced card. How do the spray adhesive fans (I really like it otherwise for smooth coverage) get around the perma sticky overspray while cutting things out?
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  #13  
Old 06-06-2022, 05:08 PM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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I've had this model for years. It's devoid of detail, more or less like the real ship. I read previously about cutting laser parts, why, the point is they are precut. Anyway, highly recommend laminating your decks with CA glues. Been doing that for years with great results, no bowing or twisting.

Sounds like this is your 1st paper model based on your questions. I would have recommended a smaller much older kit to start. It allows you to develop your skills and you won't care if you ruin a kit or two. Patience is key. Instructions are pretty much useless in this format of modeling. Just follow the basic numerical order and laminate as needed.

Avoid paper rails if you can, they are overscale and way too fragile. Don't add the screws or rudder till you're almost done, handling the hull is a bitch and I guarantee you'll break them off.

Good luck, looking forward to your results. Italian ships if nothing else were beautiful.
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  #14  
Old 06-06-2022, 09:06 PM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAPER FAN View Post
I've had this model for years. It's devoid of detail, more or less like the real ship. I read previously about cutting laser parts, why, the point is they are precut. Anyway, highly recommend laminating your decks with CA glues. Been doing that for years with great results, no bowing or twisting.

Sounds like this is your 1st paper model based on your questions. I would have recommended a smaller much older kit to start. It allows you to develop your skills and you won't care if you ruin a kit or two. Patience is key. Instructions are pretty much useless in this format of modeling. Just follow the basic numerical order and laminate as needed.

Avoid paper rails if you can, they are overscale and way too fragile. Don't add the screws or rudder till you're almost done, handling the hull is a bitch and I guarantee you'll break them off.

Good luck, looking forward to your results. Italian ships if nothing else were beautiful.
Thanks for the advice. I chose to start with something I really wanted and a fairly difficult kit because 1. I've had many years with plastic, wood, and metal media and my patience is very high and my fine motor and attention to detail should be adequate 2. My style of learning often involves starting with a bang

Is there a brand of CA glue you recommend and application method? I think it'd be tedious to paint with the standard super-glue bottles.

I have a PE rails/details kit on order and a brass set of barrels.
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2022, 06:57 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Got these on Amazon. Many greys which is good. Bleeds a lot and the color is much darker than when testing on flat paper. 0.5 Cool Grey is best for the lighter grey.



First wall piece. Not a perfect fit because I discovered the deck is 1mm forward from where it should be. I also had to add extra backing to keep the walls following the lines on deck.

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  #16  
Old 06-07-2022, 11:19 PM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Talking

To clarify the middle deck is in the right place but the foredeck is 1mm back from the nose. I see the former notch not quite against the back edge. Interesting how one side of the model requires practice and fooling to get a good fit and the other side just goes on perfectly. (Skills improve as I go)



Starting to add the hull panel attachment plates


My tools and build space


All ready for hull panels
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  #17  
Old 06-08-2022, 08:38 AM
Hazooka Hazooka is offline
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Hi rumbeard.

Great and clean start!

I'm worried about those strips on the ribs though.
I know they can help attaching the hull parts but the laser cut frame were designed for the paper thickness only I believe. When you add anything more to the shape the cover may not fit and you will have gaps on the WL.

I hope I'm wrong, but something tells me this may happen.

Witold.
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  #18  
Old 06-08-2022, 09:10 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hazooka View Post
Hi rumbeard.

Great and clean start!

I'm worried about those strips on the ribs though.
I know they can help attaching the hull parts but the laser cut frame were designed for the paper thickness only I believe. When you add anything more to the shape the cover may not fit and you will have gaps on the WL.

I hope I'm wrong, but something tells me this may happen.

Witold.
You'd think so, but the instructions say to do it. They say to use thick paper or thin cardstock so I went with the .5 mm cardboard.

Interestingly enough this model has been a huge learning experience and I've made a few mistakes along the way. Found out I forgot one of the laser cut parts (a cross bar under a turret). I may stick it in long-wise since I don't want to pry the model open to get at it and it's not strictly necessary. I already had to remove two hull panels and re-fit because I misread the instructions (thought I should join panels on both sides along the hull seam then saw they have a 1 mm strip down the middle to cover the open space.

I'll probably have to paint part of this kit anyhow as the printing job GPM did with hull parts on one sheet and another are different red shades.
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2022, 09:21 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2022, 05:29 PM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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I always paint my lower hulls. I also leave as much paper past the upper seam as I can to provide a gluing strip for the upper hull plates. Older models like this one are especially prone to mismatched parts. Painting the lower hull covers up all that. The upper plates will be over the lower not butted but nobody looks at the model from underneath so that edge is naturally hidden.
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