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  #21  
Old 06-08-2022, 05:33 PM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Wow I thought that was an error the small overlap. Good to know. I was thinking about how best to slice it off but now I know I won't have to.

I was on an Internet binge last night and found this amazing build of the GPM Bismarck where the guy went through and every problem/issue with the kit he had I agree with. He also answered all my deep lingering questions. I was so excited to pick his brain and chat with him since he was in Australia only to discover he had passed away in 2020. I still have to give a shout to the guy. Amazing build

Bismarck by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - GPM - 1:200 - CARD and PE - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day - Model Ship World™

RIP Mr. Vadas

My next ship will be a Halinski. My favourite ship in the whole world. IJN Fuso.
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  #22  
Old 06-10-2022, 01:56 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAPER FAN View Post
I always paint my lower hulls. I also leave as much paper past the upper seam as I can to provide a gluing strip for the upper hull plates. Older models like this one are especially prone to mismatched parts. Painting the lower hull covers up all that. The upper plates will be over the lower not butted but nobody looks at the model from underneath so that edge is naturally hidden.
Or as I discovered as I did the rest of the hull the last piece has a panel gap which I will fill with a thin strip of leftover material. I made one more mistake during the assembly and put two panels on backwards. First one has stayed like that as it's a middle panel and almost symmetrical but as I was putting on the third panel I realized I needed to razor off the second and pull the third 30 seconds after putting it on. I've since put them on correctly but some sanding, testors contour putty, and painting will now be definitely required.
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  #23  
Old 06-10-2022, 02:11 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Blithely applying hull panels. Going swimmingly from the front but you can see this last one is backwards which I didn't realize at the time.



No problem says I (not yet realizing the error). Lets shim this to reinforce it


Front looks good.


Errors in rear ok and rudder slot trued up


Then I realized and had to cut off a panel and remove a second one. Once reinstalled the fit is much better with a 1.5 mm gap to add a strip to but now I definitely have to fill, sand, and paint. Notice the rightmost seam looks open but it actually is not.
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  #24  
Old 06-10-2022, 04:52 AM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Thanks for the link to the Dan Vadas build.

Too bad about the need to replace a panel. It was looking like a remarkably smooth hull. Nonetheless, it is shaping up to be a splendid model.

Don
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  #25  
Old 06-16-2022, 05:21 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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So everyone can say I told you so

So one thing I suffer from early in building kits on new media is the buying spree and the lack of patience to not go fast. So I have a real dilemma. First I put on putty and sanded. Looked good. Sprayed, but had a masking mess up and now I have overspray. Also the putty was lumpy so a bunch of reworks later I got the hull looking mostly good but I've sanded enough away in spots it was opening up. I've used some CA Zap-a-gap to fix that but not sure how to fix the deck overspray. The other spots I can mix two of the Lifecolor paints I got to do touch up. Should I start over? (Not going to let it beat me and I've learned the large majority of my lessons.)

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  #26  
Old 06-16-2022, 05:23 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Got these nice kits as part of the spree
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  #27  
Old 06-16-2022, 05:24 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Almost OK
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  #28  
Old 06-16-2022, 02:04 PM
Dazliare Dazliare is offline
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I am not experienced in ship hulls, but the effect you have here almost looks like weld lines. I am wondering if some detail work could accent the effect and look really interesting
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  #29  
Old 06-16-2022, 05:22 PM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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Keep building, develop your skills. This medium is extremely unique. It's not like going from plastic to resin or even wood. I considered myself pretty good in plastic but really took 4 kits or so before I felt comfortable. My first few builds were eventually torched. Now, I'll never go back to plastic, no need for toxic fumes and the selections offered by this medium far exceed the others.

Patience is crucial but so is practice. This particular kit is one of the simpler kits, but still a serious challenge for a 1st timer.
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  #30  
Old 06-16-2022, 09:38 PM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAPER FAN View Post
Keep building, develop your skills. This medium is extremely unique. It's not like going from plastic to resin or even wood. I considered myself pretty good in plastic but really took 4 kits or so before I felt comfortable. My first few builds were eventually torched. Now, I'll never go back to plastic, no need for toxic fumes and the selections offered by this medium far exceed the others.

Patience is crucial but so is practice. This particular kit is one of the simpler kits, but still a serious challenge for a 1st timer.
Thanks. I'll be starting over since my PE kits aren't here yet... Re-ordered the base model and forms from GPM. I will use this kit for practice and spares. My next biggest fear is how to laminate using CA. The glues I got Zap and Roket say to use 1 drop per square inch or something like that. Do I just dot-grid the back of the paper and roll onto cardboard? Would I need to spread with an old credit card? When I did a touch point test with CA on non matte sprayed paper it soaked through and darkened the other side. Will my planned Micador matte spraying prevent this with CA glue? I was using and probably will still use UHU for the card forms, however, I will be more precise and sparing with it as it's stringy and gummy.
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