#71
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Quote:
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Passion is the key.... |
#72
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Problem, the varnish diminishes the glue bond. Much like glueing painted parts of a pkatic model. 3 or 4 yrs later your model diassembles itself.
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#73
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I do not varnish my models for that precise reason. I guess it an be done once the model is built, but there are better solutions I think.
A little progress while I experiment on the best way to fix things. Modelik Fuyuzuki and Answer Akizuki share the same set of formers, so I went to cut a set of internal supports that I made for the Akizuki (see my other post for details). I also had two friends use the same set of double bottom supports, so this design I made last year resulted in 4 hulls already. In the image you can see the double bottom in progress after the waterline has been cleaned up. The technique is made popular precisely to make hulls survive wet weather, as well as generally more controllable result overall. There will be an additional layer of card on top of this layer, once it is sanded and filled. The skin then covers that additional layer once that is sanded and filled too.
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"The world is big" On hold: Fuyuzuki, Zao, Zara, Akizuki, Past works: XP55 Ascender, CA Ibuki, Seafang F32, IS-3, Spitfire V, J-20 |
#74
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not necessarily I built my first model years ago and used capon varinsh it is like based for proper varnish and nothing is happening to the model ,still in great shape after years.
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Passion is the key.... |
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