44 ft Lifeboat

[Tapcho]

Last update tonight: added a little bench in front of the radar. I hoped that I would have finished the wheelmans chair but that was too complex structure for one evening - more of that and other things tomorrow.

[Tapcho]

First pieces of metal about to be added to the so far paper boat (if one doesn't count the foil used simulating the riveted frame of the watertight door) - the helmsman's chair. I just didn't find the stamina of trying to do it from paper tubes and ended up using trusted paper clips.

In the pictures you see the models version of the chair, my first attempt with too thick clip and the final version (lacking some additional detail though). The last picture shows test fitting it in the cabin with a temporary stand. I think the width is ok, it is a bit crowded there but so it was onboard the originals too.

Next: armrest padding, pneumatic stand (had to have a good suspension on rough seas), seatbelts and finally painting and assembly. Should be all done by today. I'm off cleaning the carage - so I'm told. :D

[Tapcho]

Here is the helmsman's chair on a one euro coin and in the office. Currently working on a fire extinguisher and the brackets holding it - will be located on the port side wall of the cabin.

[Pat_craft]

Wooo... it's really small...

[Tapcho]

This is it for today: finished the fire extinquisher and it was fun to do. It is all paper, glue and paint. First I rolled three different size paper tubes: one for the body, one to be the handle and one for the hose. Dending and forming and the seling everything with CA. And finally paint. I use hobby acrylics mostly because they dry faster and the process is faster - though in this scale building speed is very relative issue. Hope you all enjoy this build, I know I do.

[rbeach84]

Tap, you are a great role model (no pun intended, but there it is nonetheless:D) The boat is really looking nice - obviously you are a kindred sufferer of 'advanced modeling syndrome'
Couple of technique Q's for you:
What did you use for the non-skid floor surface?
&
Did you figure out the cracking issue with the joint compound?
(In my experience, it is related to uneven drying rates across the compound, either from a) too thick an application or b) too much moisture or c) too hot/dry an environment during cure. I often will apply thin coats after letting a 'dab' air out a bit to lose some moisture *before* applying it...)

Thanks for sharing this!

[Tapcho]

Chronical AMS - guilty as charged! :D

I believe the cabin floor is plain steel (mayde a teardrop pattern on it). If you refer to that I am shamed to tell you that came from on old and gloggy paint (should have dtirred it better and dilute it a bit too). :o

On the deck the non-skid areas either covered all of the deck or were applied as strips on certain areas only (like side walkvays, fore and bow deck area and the cabin roofs). In this scale I might use fine black sandpaper (1200-1600 grit) to represent it. I haven't decided yet which way to go.

Your ideas of hull cracking problems are very true and I might have encountered all of them at the same time. Humidity here is 85, temperatures during daytime around 28 to 34 C and I hurried a bit. I have to be more carefull next time and at least double all normal curing times.

Thanks rbeach84,

Tappi

[birder]

Looking good Tappi!

[rbeach84]

Originally Posted by Tapcho

Chronical AMS - guilty as charged! :D
I believe the cabin floor is plain steel (mayde a teardrop pattern on it). If you refer to that I am shamed to tell you that came from on old and gloggy paint (should have dtirred it better and dilute it a bit too). :o
On the deck the non-skid areas either covered all of the deck or were applied as strips on certain areas only (like side walkvays, fore and bow deck area and the cabin roofs). In this scale I might use fine black sandpaper (1200-1600 grit) to represent it. I haven't decided yet which way to go.
Your ideas of hull cracking problems are very true and I might have encountered all of them at the same time. Humidity here is 85, temperatures during daytime around 28 to 34 C and I hurried a bit. I have to be more carefull next time and at least double all normal curing times. Thanks rbeach84, Tappi

Tappi, the 'lumpy' paint gives an excellent impression of the non-skid 'coating' paint, which is difficult to apply smoothly with a brush (in real life) - there is spray equipment but that is mostly seen in shipyards! I think you could use this as an intentional technique in the future.

I like Gil's technique for improving the performance of the joint compound by adding PVA glue to it - probably makes it more resistant to cracking by giving it some flexibility when cured. His thread provides his recipe for a custom filler paste that looks very promising, though I like the joint compound for it's easy (though dusty!) sanding characteristic.

Keep up the good work!

[Tapcho]

Originally Posted by rbeach84

I think you could use this as an intentional technique in the future.

:D

Originally Posted by rbeach84

I like Gil's technique for improving the performance of the joint compound by adding PVA glue to it - probably makes it more resistant to cracking by giving it some flexibility when cured.

Now there's a good idea. I've missed that thread altogether and have look up at it before I do more serious mistakes on her hull.

Thanks rbeach and Glen!

Tappi