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#11
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I will add support for image printing in the near future, stay tuned! :D |
#12
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I use Acrobat-Reader and the pdf opens at 172% with clear pixelation. Apparantly it's not vector. The same is visible in Irfanview, PDFill, PDF-viewer, GS-view and more...
Looking forward to a solution! ;-)
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Greetings from Holland Willem E. (AKA Ponytail) |
#13
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Hey phuocdh.
Papermaker is promising. To give it a decent test I created a bullet shaped object in Blender, imported the file, and unfolded it. The two images below show the results. ![]() ![]() As you can see, Papermaker easily unfolded the bullet despite the fairly large number of polygons and sloppy construction. If it can do that, it can handle any fuselage or ship hull. My thoughts in no particular order: 1) If I shoot for high resolution in Blender, the resulting object contains a very large number of polygons. When I bring that object into Papermaker, clicking every single cut line will take a very long time. A lasso function that grabs all line segments in a box and flags them for cutting would save much time. 2) I would like the ability to move the camera position when cutting. This would help when cutting up very long objects, like a hull or fuselage. 3) If I select a line segment for cutting, clicking it again should deselect it. Having to go down to the Undo button is cumbersome. If you click a bunch of line segments, then realize you made a mistake 20 clicks back, it kinda sucks. 4) Connecting tabs are E V I L. All connecting tabs should hang by the neck until dead. I know I can edit them out, but an option to leave off all connecting tabs would be lovely. :D Also, thank you for including the show/hide inner lines function. Dashed fold lines are almost as evil as connecting tabs. My apologies if the application includes any of the functions above and I missed them. ... I was able to import the unfolded bullet into Inkscape and redraw the components in vector format fairly easily. Since this is an early test I will not attempt to actually build the bullet. :o If Pagemaker included an option to export in Scalable Vector Format it would save much time. Well done. I hope some of my observations help. Good luck with this project! Last edited by Damraska; 10-05-2020 at 12:50 PM. Reason: This forum software sucks. Also, I am stupid. |
#14
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#15
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Re: Damraska
Thanks for your thoroughly testing!
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And yes, vector export is no doubt a must have feature. The implementation is fairly big so it will take some time ![]() |
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#16
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I usually do use tabs, but on my last design, I edge glued the whole model. It was quite boxy, so this approach worked well for it. One can also make one's own separate tabs to glue on the inside of both joined edges. In the past, I have used paper tabs that I cut from copy paper to glue card stock pieces together to have a nicer seam. It's kinda like using a more permanent form of paper or masking tape. ![]()
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My other life:http://rcorycollins.weebly.com/ |
#17
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Good day, phuocdh!
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In the cases of bricks, cubes, and other low facet count polyhedral shapes, connecting tabs have more utility but still produce imprecise seams. In my experience, they also tend to produce unwanted flaring, even on the smallest items. Again, a connecting strip introduced from behind produces a superior result in almost all cases. Some models use butt glued conic sections for barrel shaped assemblies. A given segment folds to form a cylinder with a former at each end. The cylindrical sections connect to one another by gluing the adjacent formers together. If one carefully sands adjacent formers to shape, this construction method can produce pleasing results. Any variance between adjacent formers results in unsightly mismatches. Finally, as Shadowcory mentions, one may glue the edge of one part to the face of another. Doubling or tripling the thickness of the card stock creates a broader edge and thus a better connection. This method works well for small parts with a large edge relative to the size of the piece. Even in this case, adding a connecting tab greatly increases joint strength without producing any unsightly deformations at the joint. I fully understand why most card models use connecting tabs. They are easy to model, easy to build, and produce strong joints. However, when striving for greater realism, one most employ other methods. I am not saying, "Get rid of the option!". An option to remove tabs would save time for someone like me. ![]() Quote:
Really complex, low resolution bitmap objects are a pain in the petunias to redraw. For example, a couple days ago, I redrew the grills on the warp pylons of Ron Caudillo's USS Enterprise model. It took me an hour to trace that one part and get the geometry perfect. :o |
#18
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phuocdh thanks for starting this thread and your program.
And all the others thank you for your input - very interesting. I have been following along and enjoying the suggestions and discussion a lot.
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#19
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I remember one thing Pepakura lacks is a quick way to edit tabs. It would be great if I could set a setting (width, angle) and click-apply or lasso it to any number of tabs.
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"The world is big" On hold: Fuyuzuki, Zao, Zara, Akizuki, Past works: XP55 Ascender, CA Ibuki, Seafang F32, IS-3, Spitfire V, J-20 |
#20
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Update
Thank you all for all the suggestions and encouragement!
As suggested by Damraska on this thread, I have just released the ability to un-cut a line, along with model size helper (just a box to display model size in millimeter around the model) and some other improvements. Check it out! https://papercraft-maker.com (PS: it might be better to edit my first post but don't know how...) |
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