#11
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That looks like just the thing for exhaust pipes on 1/72 aircraft... and a few other things I can think of!
Ryan
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Certified Flight Instructor in Dallas, TX Websites: www.doolittleraid.com & www.lbirds.com Papermodels at: www.scribd.com/TexasTailwheel.com |
#12
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What material did you use for the mold? I've been thinking very seriously about starting some molding and this looks like the perfect avenue. Ryan
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Certified Flight Instructor in Dallas, TX Websites: www.doolittleraid.com & www.lbirds.com Papermodels at: www.scribd.com/TexasTailwheel.com |
#13
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This gives rise to a PLETHORA of ideas!!!
Here is the mfr's site: Clay Lines | Polyform Products Company Jim
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1914--1918. WE WILL REMEMBER THEM. |
#14
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Gil, your knowledge of materials and working techniques never ceases to amaze me. I have many O-Rings like this from various carburetors and whatnot, but outside their element, they would surely dry and crack up. The putty offers an elegant long lasting solution.
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#15
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Mold Material
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The one shown is made from Durham's Water Putty. I use Plaster of Paris [PoP] for most "one off" molds [don't expect to use it one or two times]. For larger molds and casting requirements for more than a dozen I use U.S. Gypsum's FGR 95, a fiberglass reinforced hydrocal. A short blurb on the product characteristics is here. This brings up an interesting fact about Super Sculpey Firm - it retains its form during the baking process [within limits of course] - the need for casting molds is greatly reduced though in circumstances like tires it's nearly impossible to do in a free form manner. Aircraft exhausts is a perfect application for it. I'm not sure the material will support cooling fin detail yet..., Hi John, Those big fat O-rings can be used to model balloon tires. One last item - it doesn't seem to show any preferences as regards the type of glue. They're all good..., Here's an after Christmas bonus. Download their catalogue - it's a rich resource for the artisan modeler..., Best regards, +Gil |
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#16
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The sculpey firm is good for general purpose parts, bakes brown if you forget it's in the oven.
I use it to 'stuff' paper molds, makes them swell a bit if you over pack it, which is generally the case. One thing i've found with it is that you really need to knead alot more than other clays, they do recommend a pastry roller on some sites. Also found that this clay is practically useless for thin wall/sheet parts, it's far too brittle, for that i'd recommend using kato clays or even epoxy. I've never tried baking it twice though, ie, making a blank and baking it, adding more clay and re-baking it. I was told you could do that but never got around to trying it, also told to make it smooth you brush turpentine on it, not that I can get hold of any turpentine, it's all replacement stuff (kerosene). |
#17
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Cooling Fins
Cooling fin trial shown below. I'm fairly impressed by the amount of time "not spent" making it...,
Sculpey can be disolved in either turpentine or rubbing alcohol - I prefer paint thinner. It softens and makes the Sculpey tacky so that it can be adhered to paper. SSF [Super Sculpey Firm] turns brown if you over bake it taking on a leather look. Weld seams? - easily made with SSF..., +Gil |
#18
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That brown leather look could be a real bonus for seats and the like. Some of the figuring makers, like Valmy, could make good use of that feature. I see a Leather Flight Jacket being a potential candidate.
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#19
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Can you make action figures with it
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mcgarrett:book'em danno danny:really? is this gonna be your thing |
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