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  #31  
Old 07-20-2014, 08:13 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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I was in the "surplus" store the other day, looking at Knitting needles.
They had these shorter ones...maybe 7" or 8" long.
They came in various sizes...I'm talking 1mm, 2mm, 3mm
I assume that is the rounded tip size?
I think they were made from aluminum, and appeared to be colour coded by sizes.

I think I might buy one or two to try out as a scoring tool.

In the meantime, this is what I use.
Its a little cumbersome, but it leaves a great indent!

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  #32  
Old 07-20-2014, 08:13 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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sorry, wrong "indent" tool.

Should be this one:

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  #33  
Old 07-20-2014, 08:19 AM
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richkat richkat is offline
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Is that a Depleted Uranium scoring tool? Dang that's high-tech Dave.......Rich
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  #34  
Old 07-20-2014, 09:03 AM
Kim YooNa Kim YooNa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdave View Post
Lancer....
I reserve the term "embossing" for things like adding surface rivets
- using a tool to push bumps into the paper, from the backside.
Or adding a raised panel line.
Sorry if I used the wrong word to express my doubts, I believe that everyone has understand my questions.

Quote:
What "paper" are you working with?
The model that I'm working now has a paper a bit glossy, but it doesn't write how thik is the paper... I suppose is an regular paper, like for the rest of the models of L'instant Durable.
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  #35  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:44 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Hi Kim,

Yes, I've read about using wax paper to help with the scoring (embossing). Haven't tried it yet. I did try rubbing/sinking the hard ball of an embossing tool in a candle, it was red and left a red mark on the paper. It did allow for easier "glide" of the tool across the paper. Perhaps using parafan wax (cooking wax) that is clear might work.

You can try the .05mm tool, don't use much force. Mt favorite for a long time was a 1mm size. It would sometimes tear the paper cardstock if I used to much force. After awhile it began tearing it all the time. The shiny layer on the outside had worn off.

One thing I did that seemed to help was using some bicycle chain lube. Left the embosser overnight in a small amount of the chain lube (used an upside down spray paint can plastic top).

Cleaned up the ball with a paper towel the next day and then did multiple scores on some scrap cardstock until I was sure no lube was going to stain the model. The type of chain lube has Teflon in it-Calls itself "Dry Teflon Lube". The Teflon coats the metal surface....

Another idea that might work: Using silicone spray. Haven't tried it yet, plan to buy a can and see.

Mike
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  #36  
Old 07-23-2014, 01:53 PM
Kim YooNa Kim YooNa is offline
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Hi Mike!

Tks for your advice. It feels good when you know that someone is offering advice to a beginner like me.

I will try what you suggested... and more... I will use the bicycle chain lube directly on the paper... joking!
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