Embossing Tools; What Do You Use

[mbauer]

Been using a really nice embossing tool called the Empressor Stylus. Nice cushion grips and 4-different sized balls on the end. One end is spring loaded to compensate if you use to much force.

Noticed of late that my favorite end is dragging and tearing the cardstock if too much force is applied. Favorite end is the smallest tip at 1mm. It is installed in the spring loaded side.

Found a new updated style. In the following photo it is the blue cushioned one. The lite-purple one is the old style talked about first.


Photo 2 shows the business ends of both; notice how the old style has the chrome worn off-guess that is why it is draggin and tearing the top layer of cardstock...New Empressor has recessed ball that rotates, it is fairly large compared to the 1mm on the old style.


Photo 3 shows how the new version does on 260 gsm gold photo paper. Can you see the indented fold line?


New style rolls very nicely, but you need to set your straight edge about 1/8" [3mm) from the line. This is going to take some getting use to, but like how smooth it rolls! Cushioned grips are just as nice as the old style. Bought it for $9.50. Ebay and Amazon have them listed. Search for: empressor stylus

Anybody trying something new or sticking with an old favorite?

Mike

[Thomas Meek]

For a really clean, sharp bend, one can cut a v-shaped groove along the fold line on the side which is folded in (the "valley" side.) This will give the best results, and is recommended by the best builders and for the finest grade of work.

Most of the models I build do not require such precision, so I usually score the fold lines with a #16 scoring blade, the point of which I dulled on a coarse stone and then carefully polished with an Arkansas stone so it will not catch and tear the surface. I usually score the fold lines on a piece of glass.

What I am doing is not actually scoring, which is a partial cutting, but instead I am actually squashing the paper and partially breaking some of the fibers but hopefully not breaking the surface.

It takes practice, because if I use too much pressure, the surface on the out side of the bend will break, leaving a thin white ragged line which is difficult to edge color neatly.

I have not tried using a larger ball, and may give it a spin some day.

Others have suggested using a spent ball point pen, which seems a good idea. I have shied away from this because of past experiences with the unpredictability of ball pens. The darn things won't write when I want them to, and would probably start writing just when I don't.

[SCEtoAUX]

I use a crochet needle that I enclosed in some scrap wood to make a handle. I have some commercially available embossing tools but find that they are rarely used.



Here is the tip on the top crochet needle after years of use:

It is the one that gets used most often.
A section of a cheap felt backed vinyl table cloth glued to hardboard is used as a backer when using the scoring tool. Just enough give to allow the shallow indentation, but not too much to perforate the card stock.

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by SCEtoAUX

A section of a cheap felt backed vinyl table cloth glued to hardboard is used as a backer when using the scoring tool. Just enough give to allow the shallow indentation, but not too much to perforate the card stock.

This sounds like a great idea! Going to have to try this.

Might be the answer to my pressing so hard on my regular cutting matt to get the scoring done.

Thank you for the Idea!!!!!

Mike

[Don Boose]

Lots of good info in this thread.

While I admire the superb models built by modelers with the skill to cut the v-shaped grooves that Thomas mentions, I do not believe I will live long enough to acquire their talent.

So for the foreseeable future, I will continue to scribe the bending lines. For many years I used a hand-made tool made from a dulled #11 craft knife blade, similar to Thomas's scribign device, that I made based on the one shown in Eric Sayer Peterson's classic Card Modeling. However, I find the Kemper Straight Needle to be most useful both as a scriber, glue applicator, and small hole maker: Kemper Straight Needle - BLICK art materials

Don

[Miles Linnabery]

Dear Forum Folk:
I use a Stylus No. 18 Made By Speed-o-print, got to be 50 or so years old it was my fathers. the Dia of the wire is .015in or .38mm. This tool was used in the age of mimo machines. Does not tear the card stock follows the ruller well and goes free hand well. I wonder if the wire is spring steel or music wire? I have not found a source for more of these. pictures to follow taken with my wife's tablet.
Doug What size of chrochet hook do you use?
Thanks,
MILES

[SCEtoAUX]

Doug What size of chrochet hook do you use?

Miles, I think it was a size 0 hook. I made it many, many years ago and any information on it is encased in the wood handle. I had asked a crochet enthusiast if she had any small, spare crochet hooks that were not being used and received two small hooks. They might have come in a kit so the hooks might not conform with standard crochet hook dimentions. The one in use the most could be worn down to smaller dimension, too.

To further confuse things here is a picture of some crochet hook tips.

The far left one is an old crochet hook with the number 0 stamped on it, which should be 1.75 MM according to information I found about crochet hook sizes.
The middle one is a newer crochet hook with B/1 - 2.25 MM stamped on it.
The far right one is the one I use.
Seems to me that a 0 size hook should be smaller than a 1 size hook, but perhaps the sizes have been altered over the years.

[rewalston]

One of the problems I'm consistently having is when using a ruler for straight lines, no matter how hard I try lining the ruler up with the line, my scored line is always off line. Any suggestions?

Rusty

[rickstef]

move the ruler down from the line, the embosser needs space to make the line

If you are using a ball type embosser, check to see how much you need to move the ruler

if you are using a blade type embosser/scoring tool, check if you are on the line with the tip of the tool or riding the ruler's edge

also check to see if you are holding the tool vertically, and not to an angle, that will cause the score line to be off

Rick

[SCEtoAUX]

A technique I borrowed from my woodworking endeavours. When I want to mark a line I place the marking knife on the line then move the straight edge up to the knife then mark along the straight edge. Try squares and combination squares help out because you can hook one of the sides of the right angle on the part and make the mark.

To score a long line on a paper model put the scoring tool on the line and move the ruler up to the line. Note the position of the ruler in relation to the line and scoring tool and pivot the ruler up to the line along its length using the scoring tool as the pivot point. With practice the ruler will line up with the scoring line so when the scoring tool is moved along the ruler it will be right on the scoring line.
"How do you get to Carnegie Hall?" "Practice, practice, practice."