Glue-What do we use? - Page 5

**sparrowhawk** · #41 10-05-2015, 02:27 PM

If I may chime in from across "the Pond":
I grew up using the classical UHU all purpose but I really did not like the "webs" it produces and the odour. Strange, how people can get addicted to it.
By now I mostly use UHU Flinke Flasche, black label: Comes in squeeze-able soft plastic bottles and produces far less "webs". While it still contains solvent, it is far milder.
I mostly apply this either directly: You can whittle the tip to shape with a simple break-off knife -
or by giving a dot of glue onto the blade of the airscrew of an old styrofoam aircraft model: the glue will not adhere to it so you can pull off any residues once the glue has set. You can use it like a micro spatula for applying tiny quantities in just the right spot.
I apply the glue to both surfaces, wait until it has dried off a bit and apply another layer of glue to 1 surface. I find this to give a very neat and strong bonding.
Beware though: The "green label" is water based, does not glue so quickly and well and may warp thinner parts!

**GNLidiard** · #42 10-05-2015, 03:17 PM

I use Humbrol Balsa cement. Does teh job well, no damp wrinkles and holds well.

**Sidewinder81777** · #43 10-05-2015, 08:19 PM

I use a thick, 5-15 second set time C/A(superglue)from the local hobby shop. The thick kind doesn't just instantly wick into the paper like thin C/A, Give's me the near instantaneous bond to edge glue almost everything I do, and is impervious to humidity. It just works really well for me.

**herky** · #44 10-05-2015, 10:46 PM

i have always used the uhu all purpose that comes in the yellow tube

**mbauer** · #45 10-05-2015, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMac

Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of glue to use for high gloss card stock? I'm building a bare aluminum P-38 and I'm having issues with both PVA and CA glue.

Zip Dry! Found mine at Joanns Fabric.

Smelly chemical smell, but you can glue metal, paper, clear canopies etc to each other.

Get to much on the model, let it dry then rub it off like rubber cement. Best to store the bottle upside down so it doesn't plug the opening.

Mike

**thepaperguy** · #46 10-05-2015, 11:53 PM

i used UHU all purpose on this glossy bird. it will melt some inks off so try sealing the ink first. i clear coated it prior to adding any fairings on the wing roots or the canopy to avoid the ink being removed. Its the prototype Dave Winfield P-51D Racer 5

**sparrowhawk** · #47 10-06-2015, 12:52 AM

This is one incredibly attractive model!
When will the kit be published? I need it!
(Sorry for the off-Topic.)

**JMac** · #48 10-06-2015, 10:56 AM

Wow! What a response! Thanks for all of your tips and recommendations. This is my third model so I'm still just a beginner. I can use all the input and help I can get. It looks like I'll be doing some experimentation and testing with adhesives. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. It is nice to know that there is a great support team here to help out us noobs. You all are awesome!

Nice Mustang Paperguy!!!

**trainfanM** · #49 10-06-2015, 07:24 PM

I really like Elmer's Craft Bond Paper Craft Glue Gell (4oz.)

It doesn't run, it dries clear, is sticky when applied thin, and is strong once completely dry -- it also has no smell.

It also makes an excellent weight to press down parts as they dry!

It can be found at AC Moore, Michael's, and on Amazon (it's more expensive there, but search for B000BKO6GS .)

On the Elmer's Website:
elmers.com/product/detail/E433

Cheers!

**thepaperguy** · #50 10-06-2015, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparrowhawk

This is one incredibly attractive model!
When will the kit be published? I need it!
(Sorry for the off-Topic.)

Its already available on the market from cutandfold.info its in the racers collection. I did the work on the beta for Dave as a special request.
http://papermodelshop.com/html/air_racers.html