#41
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Quick editing note.
Bottom of Page 85, under the photo of the folded cube you say: Then pick up the square with the 1 on it and fold across the other two creases. Apply pressure to the new two folds and this should get all for score lines to be parallel (or very close to parallel). I believe that should be 'four', not 'for'. Sorry, but I'm just scanning your work right now. |
#42
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Did a quick run through of the book. Looks good.
Lighting. You did not mention how important good lighting is especially when cutting. Eliminating shadows is very, very helpful when cutting. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I did not find a section on forming domes using either petals or rings. There is some info about paper moulding and there is some explantion about the techniques for forming aircraft noses and the design of spheres using a few or many rings (we all know how much fun it would be to glue together hundreds of narrow strips to make rings then glue the rings together to make a sphere ). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A thought about rescaling and the math involved. When rescaling models that have scales given as ratios I use the idea that you divide what you have with what you want then multiply the result by 100 to get the percentage needed to print at the desired scale. Have 1/72 (1:72) want 1/144 (1:144). Divide 72 by 144 and you get 0.50 as the result. Multiply 0.50 by 100 to get 50%. Print the 1/72 at 50% to get the desired 1/144 scale. Have 1/144 want 1/72. Divide 144 by 72 and get 2.00 as the result. Multiply 2.00 by 100 to get 200%. Print the 1/144 at 200% to get the desired 1/72 scale. Of course then you would have to explain that if the model scale is given in mm then you would have to do the opposite. Rescaling a 28mm object to 56mm means you would have to double the size. No: Have 28, want 56. 28/56 = 0.50 x 100 = 50%. Not what you want. Yes: Have 28 want 56. 56/28 = 2.00 x 100 = 200%. (Veecy versy when reducing the size.) You have to keep the scales in the same system. You would not divide 144 by 25 if you have a 1/144 model and you want a 25mm model. Hopefully the person trying to glean the information about rescaling does not get into that "It's fractions. I don't understand fractions", or "It's metric. I don't understand metric" mindset. "I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you"
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#43
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#44
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SCEtoAUX:
Thanks, I should add sections on lighting and petals/rings. Let me think about rephrasing the bit on rescaling and the math involved. |
#45
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Thank you for writing this book. You have done a FANTASTIC JOB on it! I have downloaded it and will be reading more thoroughly soon.
I think that adding section on lighting and petals/rings would be a great addition. I think that this book will greatly help promote paper/cardstock model building and dis-spell many misconceptions and misunderstandings about this hobby.
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If it can be thought of, it can be done. |
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#46
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Version 0.54 is now up. It includes a section on scales and talks about petal spheres now... and a few spelling mistakes have been taken care of. It is at the same link as before.
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#48
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That's probably enough downloads from which to infer some manner of meaning about the popularity of the book.
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Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere, not detail. later, F Scott W |
#49
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I did a search in your pdf book for the word "burnish".
Is this a technique you ever use? Something to the effect of using the back of an old spoon to smooth petals or rings, so their edges blend together. I liked your mention of a jig for spoked tires. Perhaps a jig for airplane propellers, one that can accomodate 2-, 3-, 4- and 5-bladed variants. Thank you for the book and your effort to share your knowledge. -Steve |
#50
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Quote:
I can mention propeller jigs, but including one... that would be specific to the layout of each type of propeller hub. |
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