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  #31  
Old 05-09-2022, 01:51 AM
Foxkilo Foxkilo is offline
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Although I can agree in general to what Paper Kosmonaut said except for the viscosity of UHU and the smell. There is one point I have got to make. UHU in its standard form is in Germany not only regarded as a office glue but as a universal glue. UHU is overhere synonymous for glue. Very often one says "give me the UHU" instead of glue.

I have to conceed that by now it has been superseded by the more modern contact and acrylic glues but it is still better at least in my opinion than other generic brands. Having said this my perfect choice is something I got in a 1$ store. It is branded as a hobby glue but probably is a PVAC glue although not as watery as the later one. Thing is you really have to get used to handle it. But once you've managed it you can even glue parts together at the joints with out an overlapping latch. As one already pointed out in this thread water based glues give you a bit room to model the parts. I tried several casein and PVAC glues but I wasn't really satisfied with them.


But bottom line is there is no such thing as the universal glue for the hobby. You normally need and have more than one type and which brands and kind is up to everybody's personal taste and experience.
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  #32  
Old 05-10-2022, 03:47 AM
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herky herky is offline
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Originally Posted by Tapcho View Post
It does have a special use where it's unbeatable and that is fortifying seams and joints when assembling a model that uses formers. Because it's waterless it doesn't produce tortions and because it's quick drying you can move on pretty fast. It dries rock solid and doesn't twist so your model keeps it's intended form better. I use it in all spots that get to be covered so no harm though it's a bit messy. Shipbuilding, tanks and vehicles, aeroplanes, houses you name it - anywhere with internal formers that don't show out in the final stage. Good stuff.

For instance a 90 degree lap joint (pretty common in modeling with formers), glue first the joint, position the pieces and let dry. After dried insert a string of glue on all four sides of the joint and all lenght of the joint. Let dry and it's locked and will not change it's shape or orientation.

Tappi

i have only used this glue all the time ive worked with paper, yes it is a bit pricey if you are doing large areas but when i m glueing to layers of decking together i use a spray can glue. dont like pva craft glues and never have, everyone has their own favourites i guess
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  #33  
Old 06-14-2023, 06:25 PM
Gene K Gene K is offline
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Originally Posted by BigGiraffe View Post
Based on reading what some very talented modellers say, including JSC's tutorial videos, I do believe you have to work with each glue for awhile to learn how to really use it the best.
Kurt,

I'm not in the Paper Modelers In-Crowd, so please tell me who JSC is.

Thanks,

Gene K
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  #34  
Old 06-14-2023, 08:53 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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