Cardboard

[Helisrule2]

Hi There,

The biggest question I have on my first ever card model is the “cardboard” requirement or the word “Bristol Board”. The only real requirement was given at the beginning of the written instruction area that said to use “67lb” paper. Is there that much of a difference between 65 and 67 (I bought a pack of 65)? What thickness (generally) do you use for wing spars etc. on a 1:33 airplane kit?

[modelperry]

In general 65 and 67 # cardstock is interchangeable. As for Bristol board, it's basically .25 mm cardstock. Art supply stores have Bristol board and it's labeled as such.

The photo you show could mean a double thickness of the cardstock or could mean to glue to something heavier.

What model is this from so we might be able to better answer the question on this part?

Wing spars usually are printed on regular bond paper and then glued onto .5 mm or 1 mm cardboard. There is usually an indication of which thickness to use. If not, measure any notches for the framework pieces to fit together to get an idea of proper thickness.

Greg

[airdave]

Ditto what Greg said, plus my two cents....

65lb and 67lb in my experience, is Cardstock versus Coverstock.
And in my opinion, Coverstock is like a premium cardstock.
Slightly more compressed and heavier (hence the 67lb) for the same sheet of cardstock.
Smoother and almost shiny, for better printing ("for a cover").
And, a little bit stiffer (because of the compressed weight?)
Its usually more expensive too.

I don't bother with coverstock anymore, just buy a good brand name cardstock,
like Neenah Bright White.
Once you spray seal the printed sheets, its a good finish.

Internal formers...more about the thickness, and less about the material make up.
Most models will specify the required thickness of the internal parts.
This is the designers choice based on how the designer wants the model to be assembled.
My 1/33 aircraft, for example, use 1mm thick bulkhrad and wing formers.
It doesn't matter what the formers are made from as long as they have some rigidity and are the correct thickness.
The thickness is also a rough measure, if you go thicker or thinner, you just have to adjust interlocking slots.

I usually print my Formers on the lightest, cheapest copy paper
and then glue that to heavier card.
I have laminated (with 3M Spray 77 spray glue) cereal box cardboard (cheapest option), cardstock sheets, Poster Board and Bristol Board sheets, to the correct thickness.

I'm more interested in how easily the 1mm thick parts will cut (with my hobby knives or scissors).
I don't use strong card like Illustration Board or Matte Board.
It might be the correct thickness, but its tough and hard to cut.
That makes it tough and hard on the hands and fingers too!

Cereal Card, Cardstocks and Poster Boards all cut fairly easily (up to 1mm)
Anything thicker than that, I don't fight to cut.
If I want a 2mm former, I'd cut two 1mm formers and glue them together.

[Helisrule2]

Thanks guys!��

[CharlieC]

There is a thread on this forum which discusses making 0.5mm and 1mm sheet from copy paper heat bonded with Gladwrap. The inventor had a fancy name for it which I can't remember. A normal Electric Iron (remember to turn off the steam) can supply plenty of heat for the bonding process. It makes a stiff sheet which is easy to cut.

Anyone remember the name of the process?

Regards,

Charlie

[airdave]

Originally Posted by CharlieC

There is a thread on this forum which discusses making 0.5mm and 1mm sheet from copy paper heat bonded with Gladwrap. The inventor had a fancy name for it which I can't remember. A normal Electric Iron (remember to turn off the steam) can supply plenty of heat for the bonding process. It makes a stiff sheet which is easy to cut.

Anyone remember the name of the process?

Regards,

Charlie

Bonding (gluing) with cling film (food wrap). IT WORKS!

[Laurence Finston]

Bristol board is available in various thicknesses, varying from easy to cut to nearly impossible to cut. It is basically cardboard sandwiched between two outer layers of white paper. It's what I normally use. I tend to use a medium thickness, but it really depends on what you're building.

The white paper layers are okay but not comparable to fine artists' papers. For some things, I've made cutouts of watercolor paper and glued them to the Bristol board. In this case, one might as well use ordinary cardboard, if available. However, I would think that the added thickness of the watercolor paper would make this method unsuitable for an airplane model.

I've made a couple of things with thick Bristol board and whether it's practical or not really depends on how many cuts you have to make. Sometimes it would be worth the extra effort. It will dull your blades very quickly, so you'll most likely need to change them often. However, if I wanted something this thick, I would seriously consider using thin plywood instead and saws (table, sabre and/or jig) to cut it.

[airdave]

Originally Posted by Laurence Finston

Bristol board is available in various thicknesses, varying from easy to cut to nearly impossible to cut. It is basically cardboard sandwiched between two outer layers of white paper. It's what I normally use. I tend to use a medium thickness, but it really depends on what you're building.

You're describing Illustration Board, Artist's Board, or Matte Board...not Bristol.
Matte/Illustration boards have thin outer paper layers with cardboard sandwiched between.
They are rigid and hard to cut (without the right tools).
Thye come in various thicknesses and weights.
1.0mm - 3.0mm thicknesses

Bristol Board is sometimes known as Poster Board.
It is a thinner, stiff card(laminated paper)
Only about .30-.40mm thickness (more like cardstock)

My Dollar Store sells a cheap version of Poster Board.
Kids buy it for school projects and posters.

Bristol Board surface can be like watercolour paper, but its usually very smooth, sem-gloss sheen, good for markers and such.
It cuts easier because its fairly thin and just paper layers.

I use cheap Poster Board to make former material for my larger models (like the Centurion, Saladin, PT Boat)
Two layers laminated with spray glue, plus the printed Formers on Copy paper...equals about 1mm thickness (ideal for my kits).

[Laurence Finston]

I just checked Gerstaecker and Wikipedia to be sure and Bristol board is what I thought it was. I didn't say that it was rigid, although the thicker grades are more rigid than the thinner ones, obviously. Since I would want it to be rigid, if I was using a thicker grade, plywood would be an option. I didn't mean illustration board, which I've never used, nor poster board.

I've never seen it with anything except smooth white paper like drawing paper on the surfaces. It's acceptable, but normally I glue other paper onto it.

I wouldn't use any of these materials for drawings or prints because they are very unlikely to be acid-free. I have qualms about using it for models. There is acid-free cardboard available for conservation or for things that need to be permanent, but more expensive. I'm thinking of switching over to using this when I've used up my supply of Bristol board.

[airdave]

okay, Im curious...can you photograph this "bristol" board
and exactly what thickness is it?

Bristol Board (or 'paper' to be more accurate) does not come in the various thicknesses you are describing.
It might vary based on quality and manufacturer, but by only a few thousandths of a millimetre.

Thick enough that you could instead use plywood?
OMG thats thick!
You are talking at least 3-5mm.
What paper model would need formers that thick and rigid?

Bristol Board does NOT have a cardboard inner.
Its all the same paper...its just thick cardstock.
Usually 1-3 layers of smooth paper.

The thickest Bristol Board could be easily cut with children's scissors.
Its not "impossible" to cut as you described.

I haven't searched wikipedia or anywhere, because I have been buying artist materials since the 1970s.
But, here goes: Bristol board - Wikipedia
Quote: "Bristol paper is used for printing documents, brochures, promotional materials and envelopes."

I have used Bristol and Poster Boards for decades.
I've also got plenty of experience with matte board, illustration boards, and various artist boards.
I'm not an expert on all the product names around the world, but...
maybe in your country, Bristol Board means something else?
In that case, I'm mistaken.

I also don't make model formers thicker than 1mm.
So I won't be using plywood either. lol