Model colouring

[LE CRIQUET]

A paper model is made up of a juxtaposition of developable volumes. The larger the scale, the greater the number of volumes that can be developed, to get as close as possible to the original shape.
That's why the "king" scale is 1/33.
The colouring of the model is just as important as its design. Careful colouring, through the excessive use of "optical illusion", will give the illusion of volume where there is none.
Observing the model from a reasonable distance will allow the magic to work.
The design of a model is relatively easy to acquire (perhaps too easy), especially with today's computer tools. It varies little from one designer to another, the only difference being the level of detail in the model, with some designers taking it further than others.
The same cannot be said of the colour scheme. This is generally basic, with the colours applied in their raw form without any nuance.
To go further, there are two techniques available to us: the use of textures (Igualda paper models for exemple) or the use of photo retouching software such as The GIMP or Photoshop.
I won't go into detail about the latter, which consists of applying hyper-realistic textures that are often exaggerated and soulless.
My preference is for colour schemes such as those proposed by Halinski, Inwald and Yoavhozmi, to name a few.
The models become veritable artworks. Everything is there: rivet lines, shadows, traces of wear, dirt etc. You have to try it out to realise how much work it takes, and how much experience you need to acquire to achieve such results.
May these talented paper modellers one day share their techniques with others. That's my dream. In the meantime, I'll give it a try!

[Siwi]

Interesting take. Some might argue that 48th or 72nd are the 'best' scales, since at that size there are details such as rivets which look convincing just printed. I do see kits with unconvincing 'shadows' that look too artificial, also panel lines that are way too dark and thick. This is why I usually paint my models as with a plastic kit since the most realistic paint texture is, well, paint. Getting a metallic surface is very difficult using inks and weathering products and metal paints or pens do a much better job.

One thing many designers do not account for is that colours appear too bright when applied at the shade they would be for the real thing. When scaled down the eye perceives the model as being far away and so the colours should be duller and less saturated. Even 5cm away from a model would be several metres in reality.

[LE CRIQUET]

Hello,
the advantage of paper is that you can offer models that are already in colour. If you treat your paper models by chewing and sanding them and then painting them, it's no longer paper modelling, it's scratchbuilding. You can see some absolutely magnificent models made in this way. But why use paper? you can replace it with plastic, depron, etc.
It's true that realistically colouring cards is a difficult exercise, but it's a particularly exciting challenge that I'm really enjoying.