Decals on cardmodels?

[sgoti]

Originally Posted by Butelczynski

I tried it years ago and it didn't work well. 3 major problems: one is water getting where it shouldn't and even 3 coats of varnish didn't seal paper enough.

This would be my primary concern with using water-slide decals on paper models. The paper MUST be sealed to prevent water and paper from doing what water and paper do when they meet.

Also, decals need a glossy surface to work best- that helps to prevent "silvering", where the decal film is visible because of microscopic air bubbles trapped between the model's surface and the decals film.

Originally Posted by Butelczynski

Two was shrinkage of decal. When decal dries it shrinks ever so little but enough to get distorted on paper. problem was visible on 1:48 scale model and I imagine other scales will be the same.

Did the decal shrink, or did the paper expand/contract due to water? I come from a model train background, and I have never encountered shrinkage with my decals in over 40-plus years.

Having boldly proclaimed that, it is possible that materials used in the manufacturing of decals in different parts of the world exhibit different characteristics, including shrinkage, and I have just never encountered it.

Originally Posted by Butelczynski

Third problem was where I stored those models. I keep my place rather cold and while paper models don't mind decals on them did. Either they dried or glue dried and decals simply fell of the models like leaves.

Decals MUST be sealed after application.

The "glue" that is present on a decal sheet is only there to adhere the decal film to the carrier backing. It WILL dry out over time, and if the decals aren't sealed after application, they WILL fall off the model.

One manufacturer (Champ Decals, for you train guys) even had instruction to float the decal completely off the carrier/backing paper to remove all traces of the glue. The decal would then be adhered to the model through some sort of "setting solution" (usually some form of acetic acid in varying concentrations) and then sealed to the model through a clear overcoat (flat through high gloss, depending on your preference).

I think this is possible, provided steps are taken to prevent water damage to the model and the decals are sealed properly afterwards. You might try constructing a test section or three to try this on before attempting on a completed model.

Good luck!

[sgoti]

Forgot to add:

It is possible to print your own decals, the fact that you are building a white model makes it that much easier.

I have printed onto clear decal film using a color laser printer with great success, I know others who have done the same with inkjet printers. Biggest issue with inkjets seems to be in using the proper decal paper, proper preparation, and proper sealing of the decals before use.

[rjccjr]

Hi dhanners;

When dealing with plastic models, it's customary to over spray an area for decals with acrylic floor polish or gloss clear coat, to avoid silvering. Then over spray the entire model when it is complete. That hides glue marks and creates a uniformity of finish. With card, use an over spray barrier on the area, you can print the markings on plain paper and attach them with a 50/50 adhesive of white glue and water. Alternatively, you can scan, and print the copied part directly. Then overspray the completed model to waterproof and even out the finish. Usually semi matte works better than dead flat or high gloss. Hope this is useful.

Regards, rjccjr

[dhanners]

Thanks, all. Was a plastic modeler for years (then I saw The Light…) and prepping a model for decaling is something I’ve done plenty of times. I’ve got paper-friendly gloss and matte sprays. The finished appearance of the white X-15A-2 was very matte.

It’ll be several days before I’m at the markings stage. Got the cylindrical part of the fuselage done today, then I’ve got the side tunnels, wings, tailplanes, dorsal and ventral tails, etc., to build or scratchbuild.

[Revell-Fan]

Originally Posted by dhanners

Can’t do that since I am building the model inside-out so everything is white on the outside.

Isolate the outline in a graphic program, delete the texture, add the decal and print the final pattern on the paper/ card you use. Easy peasy.

[juan angel 747]

Originally Posted by dhanners

Here’s a question I’ve never dealt with in my years of cardmodeling: Can water-slide decals intended for plastic/resin models by used on a card model?

I’m building a model and it has a few small markings that aren’t on the model. There is, however, a good decal set available for the model.

I figured I’d experiment with a spare decal or two on the same cardstock I’m using for the build, but I thought I’d ask if anyone has ever tried this and if they have any advice, warnings, etc.

Thanks!
David

I have a Friend in argentina that more or less does that
assemble the plane in white and then put decals on it or paint the plane like a plastic plane

In my case I also use the decals and textures of flight simulators as a reference to make some recolors in inkscape but a better case is that two friends of mine use both decals, textures and real photos of the planes to make recolors and the result is excellent