Glueing wire to paper

[GrahamAllan]

@lepercan that's a great tip M8.

[Sakrison]

Originally Posted by Gharbad

I use this white glue, called WeldBond. It holds metal pretty well, but it's still flexible and rubbery, so it's no good for metal to metal.

I generally form the beginning of the roll with the wire inside, then take it out.
I then finish the paper roll and glue it.
Then I slide in the wire, putting a bit of glue (WeldBond) at either end of the roll.

You should definitely test it out first though, since I can't guarantee my methods are any good. Your roll's diameter might be off.

I use exactly the same method with excellent results. Weldbond also is good for gluing paper to plastic -- canopies and such. And it's a lot less expensive than superglue.

No worries,
--David

[Darwin]

I might add that baking soda not only acts as an accelerator, but it does wonders at filling gaps. Be warned, though, it is difficult to sand. Carbon Tetrachloride will also accelerate drying of CA, but one would probably do better to try formaldehyde if you can't obtain the actual product . If you live in a dry climate (like here in Idaho, when a really humid day is clear up to 50 percent humidity, and 20 percent is more normal), CA drying can be accelerated by just breathing on the joint (not breathing in (inhaling) the joint....that's something else entirely....and I never did believe Clinton on that subject). CA needs a certain amount of moisture for it to cure properly.

For the task you mentioned, my technique is to attach the paper to the wire with CA, then use white glue to finish wrapping the paper. I usually pre-roll the paper part before attaching it to the wire.

[blueeyedbear]

Formaldehyde? As a retired biology professor, I am very familiar with the odor of formaldehyde and I've used lots of cyanoacrylate accelerators in model building, and I have never detected a whiff of formaldehyde from them. The label on my bottle says "synthetic hydrocarbons and aromatic amines", neither of which would include formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a potent carcinogen, and a generally very nasty chemical. Stay away from it!

If you can't find a local source for a cyanoacrylate glue accelerator, it can be ordered over the net from Squadron or MicroMark and probably from many other places. The ones that come in a little spray bottle are the best for most use (if the spray won't work for you, take the lid off of the bottle).

Here is an unasked for tip: store your tightly sealed super glue and accelerator in the refrigerator and put a small amount in a bottle cap or something similar for use. (Put them in an empty mayo bottle, if the wife objects!) They will last much longer than when stored at room temp.

Bob

[dansls1]

I just want to point out that I've used the accellerants for other modelling applications and I don't think I'd ever try to use them for card models. I can't see any way that I'd be able to apply the solvent material to only glue, without contaminating the printing / coloring on the paper. And given that they are all solvent based, I think that the color fade / bleed / removal wouldn't be worth any benefit of using the accellerant in the first place - but that's just MHO.

[rlwhitt]

I have applied accelerator with a tiny brush. Works pretty well, but you have to use an old brush as it gets hardened CA on the bristles! Another problem I've noticed, at least with the CA and accerator I've used is that it turns the glue white. :(

Originally Posted by dansls1

I just want to point out that I've used the accellerants for other modelling applications and I don't think I'd ever try to use them for card models. I can't see any way that I'd be able to apply the solvent material to only glue, without contaminating the printing / coloring on the paper. And given that they are all solvent based, I think that the color fade / bleed / removal wouldn't be worth any benefit of using the accellerant in the first place - but that's just MHO.