Laminating template to cardboard

[Gil]

To save time and downstream problems I use 3M 77 spray. I use a large, open cardboard box to help contain the over spray and have a window fan on high to exhaust any fumes away from the work. Heating the contents of the spray can by running hot tap water over the can prior to spraying aids in obtaining a very fine spray mist (works on all canned sprays). Make sure to clean the nozzle by inverting the can and spraying till only propellant is ejected.

You can also try dissolving a glue stick in de-natured alcohol. Rubbing alchohol (isopropyl alcohol) also works but you'll need the 91% variety to keep the water content low. It may take a little time for all the glue stick to dissolve, just let it sit overnight. Use enough alcohol to make a mixture with a thick, heavy cream consistency. Spread it on your sheet of card stock with a small foam brush. Apply the stock to the former stock and the job is finished.


+Gil

[Leif Ohlsson]

You can also try dissolving a glue stick in de-natured alcohol.

This sounds like a GREAT tip - are we talking about the kind of gluestick that goes with heat glue guns, or the kind you use in the office, basically simple paper glue?

I want to try this, for economic and aesthetic reasons, and for general convenience.

Leif

[Gil]

Leif, It's the simple office/home paper glue. It doesn't have as high a tack as the 3M 77 spray adhesive but it's high enough to satisfy the working requirement.

+Gil

[Gil]

Leif, One thing I forgot to mention is that the glue stick can be heat activated. I used to use it to attach silk span on stick and tissue models. This ability is retained after being thinned with alcohol. This allows the piece to be positioned and attached by the use of a hot iron on a smooth surface though the amount of glue on the surface should be increased somewhat. This is a very handy way to attach difficult items. They can be "tacked down" to the joining surface by a spot "weld" and repositioned by reheating the "tack" till the correct alignment is achieved. The seams are then "tacked" till the seam "weld" is complete. I'm sure that you're already reminiscing about certain items in prior builds where this technique would have been very handy...,

+Gil

[Leif Ohlsson]

Gil, since I know you have experimented with other different mixtures and potions for spreading on paper, do you have any recipe for a good substitute for water-based acrylic matt or semi-matt varnish?

I sort of imagined that you would have experimented with acrylic paste, de-naturated spirits, and matting agent.

It would be very nice, since such a concoction would not wrinkle paper.

At present I use Gouache Varnish Matt. It is spirits-based, but only comes in rather small bottles - and at exorbitant prices.

Eagerly waiting...

Leif

[Gil]

Originally Posted by Leif Ohlsson

Gil, since I know you have experimented with other different mixtures and potions for spreading on paper, do you have any recipe for a good substitute for water-based acrylic matt or semi-matt varnish?

I sort of imagined that you would have experimented with acrylic paste, de-naturated spirits, and matting agent.

It would be very nice, since such a concoction would not wrinkle paper.

At present I use Gouache Varnish Matt. It is spirits-based, but only comes in rather small bottles - and at exorbitant prices.

Eagerly waiting...

Leif

Hi Leif,

I tend to use nitrocellulose dope for a number of reasons but the acetone solvent is a problem for many. A more natural method is to use shellac flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol. Order "dewaxed - extra lite platinum blond transparent" flakes. These are then dissolved with 200 proof denatured alcohol. You want as little water as possible in the alcohol as it it will lengthen the drying time. A slightly thin mixture will penetrate paper and will not (to my knowledge) make the ink run (be sure to test this first though). For a flatter look you can add a flatting compound which will yield an eggshell like finish. You can also experiment with adding China White or Whiting fillers which will fill the pores of the paper much like sanding filler does. Additional coats can be added but you should give the surface a light roughing with 0000 steel wool before proceeding...,

+Gil

[Leif Ohlsson]

I've used shellac flakes before and was quite pleased with it. At that time it was the brown variety, and I used it to seal a 2m glider in balsa & silk. Worked fine, and there were no fumes worth mentioning.

The reason I didn't think about that was of course the brown hue (nice on a wooden craft, but not on paper models). I didn't know there was a colourless variety, and I am not too sure it it to be had here. But I'll enquire. (I'm not even sure they're stocking shellac flakes any more...).

Is nitrocellulose dope to be had in other than small Testor's bottles, etc.? I imagine the price is quite as high as the Gouache Varnish.

Leif

[Gil]

Is nitrocellulose dope to be had in other than small Testor's bottles, etc.? I imagine the price is quite as high as the Gouache Varnish.

Hi Leif, Sweden is know for it's fine woodwork. Look under Shellac Flakes on the net and I'm sure that if not in Sweden then there are suppliers of it in Germany or Denmark. Instrument makers still use it as they do nitrocellulose dope, only the name is different, look under "instrument lacquer" for it...,

+Gil

[Leif Ohlsson]

Thanks Gil,

Instrument lacquer is €20/0.1 liter, which is roughly $30/0.1 liter or roughly $85/ounce (quick calculation). I'm sure it's a fair price, but still...

Found many references for shellac in furniture renovation, but no local supplier of flakes yet. There is a supplier who sells a finished shellack (dissolved in ethanol) at €14 for a full liter. Good price, but not sure if it's brownish or not. And then, I've just learned that dissolved shellac ages, and isn't good for more than 6-12 months. So you really want the flakes!

OK, found a supplier for differen kinds of flakes here in Sweden (an artists supplier). Sells 100g of German white extra pale flakes for €4, which is good! Will ask at my local artists shop.

For you guys in the US this seems to be a good site for shellac flakes:

http://www.shellac.net/
http://www.shellac.net/ShellacPricing.html

Leif

[shrike]

Think big airplanes rather than small. Randolf has Nitrate Dope for $12.75/qt and Butyrate for $13.55/qt.
I'm not even going to try doing the Euro/litre conversions before I've finished my first cup of coffee for the day<G>

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/...hcoatings.html